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My two cents: valve seals

To: "Hoon Kim" <hoon@pixar.com>, "Kyle Hagemann" <kwhcpa@addler.net>
Subject: My two cents: valve seals
From: "John F Sandhoff" <sandhoff@csus.edu>
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 13:21:22 PST8PDT
Let me butt in with a couple comments.

> what is the easiest way to remove and replace one on an early '67 1600?

Take it to Les or Ross or Mike or Mike or....
Hey, you didn't say 'quickest', or 'least expensive' :-)
Sorry, I'll be serious now...

> ...the whole head is probably ready for refreshing...

Well, mileage on the engine is the main factor that determines worn
guides and such, while mere age tends to destroy valve seals all by 
itself. So if this car sat for 25 years, the seals are probably bad while 
the valve seats, guides, etc are fine (though the springs are probably
tired by now, too).

> You need to pump up the cylinder with air pressure, you'll need an air line
> fitting that screws into the sparkplug hole

Before turning on the pressure, be darn certain you're at EXACT TDC, or
you're gonna spin the engine! (Personally, bottom dead center makes more
sense to me, but I've always seen the writeups say use TDC. Probably so
if you lose pressure the valve doesn't drop all the way in?)

The alternative I've read about is to get yourself a length of nylon rope.
Put the piston partway down, feed the rope thru the sparkplug hole
'til you've filled the chamber (keep one end out so you can retrieve it!)
and then crank the piston up. The rope squishes against the valves
and holds everything tight!

-- John
     John F Sandhoff   sandhoff@csus.edu   Sacramento, CA

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