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Re: Charging problems

To: <nomadtrash@att.net>
Subject: Re: Charging problems
From: "Damian Hall" <HALLJD@pictou.nscc.ns.ca>
Date: Fri, 02 Jun 2000 14:40:04 -0300
Unfortunately a continuity test will often tell you very little in a charging 
circuit. I teach my students that a 'voltage drop' test of an energized or 
operating circuit is preferable.

The difficulty with a continuity check is that it doesn't indicate a circuits' 
ability to carry current, only that there is at least one 'strand' of wire 
connected in that circuit

A voltage drop test will indicate, to a degree, the quality of the circuit.

With the battery connected, and the car running (preferably) put the RED 
terminal of the DVOM ( DC volts- 20 volt setting) to the alternator output 
terminal and the BLACK to the battery positive post center. The maximum 
reading, with your headlights turned on should be no more than  0.5 volts ( 
0.1-0.3 volts is usually normal) Any higher than 0.5 volts indicates corrosion, 
loose connections, frayed wires or a poor ground.

You can check the ground by putting the RED to the case of the Alternator and 
the BLACK to the battery negative post. The same values apply.  NEVER use the 
OHM/ resistance/ continuity setting on a live circuit.  :-(    You will let all 
the stored smoke out of your meter, and once it leaks out, the meter will no 
longer perform.

This voltage drop test can be used on ANY electrical load where you suspect a 
resistance problem. 'Hot' side and the ground side. Especially good on the 
cranking circuit.

Hope this helps,

Damian Hall
69 2000
Stellarton    Nova Scotia

>>> <nomadtrash@att.net> 06/02/00 01:38PM >>>
Check the continuity between the positive battery 
terminal (disconnected) and the output on the 
alternator.  That will tell you if there is a good 
connection between the two.  Also check the ground from 
the battery to the frame.  Corroded or loose connections 
can cause the battery to overcharge and boil.  How did 
you bypass the amp gauge?  The connection you made there 
might have come loose.  I suggest running a direct power 
line to the battery positive.  I also suggest running a 
second ground from the battery to the frame of the car.  
>From experience with 100+ amp loads from car stereo 
installs I have done, a second ground cable can 
significantly increase the efficiency of your electrical 
system.  I know the little 25 amp roadster alternator 
needs all the help it can get.

NT
> Started having problems last week. Went out for a drive, during which
> the battery stopped charging. Figured I'd put in a new alternator and voltage 
> regulator (they weren't that expensive). Jumped the car and still not 
> charging.
> What else is there in the system that could be keeping it from charging?
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Kim
> 68 2000 CSP
> NOWROC


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