I don't think the absolute number is critical when torquing, just the evenness
of all the bolts. Too many variables to keep track of, dry, wet, tight
fitting, loose fitting, mashed threads, uncalibrated torque wrench, human
error etc. You don't even need to retorque, when do you do it, hot, cold,
lukewarm? Should the bolts/studs be replaced? Maybe someone has stretched them
by over torquing 20 years ago. If there is sealant on the threads that has
hardened, does retorquing disturb it?
My Corvette motors with 11-1 compression were done with sealant on the threads
(as recomended to seal the water out), a dry gasket, torque to mid range then
forget about it. Same for the Daimlers.
It's either going to seal or it isn't. If the block or heads are warped, well
that's another problem, sealant is not the answer for that.
Of course everyone has their own method, Jay uses silver paint on a head
gasket, I don't put anything on. My father recommends grease, so that's what
we used on a TR3 many years ago... it worked.
Tighten till it breaks, then back off half a turn...
J
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