I bought my MIG welder from Daytona MIG. It is an Italian import. It is the
110 volt, 130/turbo model. It has variable wire speed and four heat settings.
I have not used the fourth setting (130 amps). The third setting was adequate
to weld the frame outrigger on my A-H 3000. The first setting is fine for
thin panel welding. I use the 80/20 argon/CO2 mix. One future task is to
attempt to replace the "under-the-grill" portion of the aluminum shroud on
the Healey. I'll let you know how this works out.
I bought it because it was considerably cheaper than Lincoln or Hobart models.
However, it is cheaply built. Lots of plastic parts. But it works fine. I can
buy the wire and tips locally or I can order anything for it from Daytona MIG
with a mastercard and the stuff arrives in 3-4 days.
On a previous posting, I described a technique I use for panel patching.
Someone warned that since this wasn't a continuous weld, moisture could seep
in from the backside and get into the bondo. Good point. However, I don't use
bondo on these seams. I use lead on the front side and undercoat the back
side. All of this assumes that the panel is off the car where it can be
worked on easily. Leading, like the MIG welding, is easy to do when the work
can be positioned horizontally out in the open.
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