-> as well as the master cylinder. I seem to remember people saying that
-> it was best to just pick up a rebuilt master, but the cost is pushing
-> me towards a kit ($35 vs $180).
->
Given the cost of kit vs. replacement, I'd kit it, then replace if
need be. My big problem turned out to be a cracked slave.
-> - When I last drove the car I started hearing a knocking noise from the
-> rear end, quiet at first but getting quite distinct in a matter of
-> 30 minutes or so. I would suspect something in the differential
-> except that the rate of the knocking dropped when I shifted in to
-> overdrive (while maintaining the same speed). Makes me think it
-> is something between the transmission and the overdrive unit (although
-> I can't think of what). Also, it only made noise when the drive
-> train was transmitting power to the wheels -- wheels to engine
-> (compression) was quiet. Any ideas on what I should look for?
->
Sounds like a U-joint to me. OR something in the diff. Since
you mention replacing the u-joints below, Id say that is a good start.
However, since you'll have all of the back end torn apart anyhow (You were
going to replace the diff mounts weren't you? ;-)) why not open up the diff
while you have it out of the car and give it a good visual inspection
and change the lube. (Gasket is about $2.50) Can't Hurt, and it's good
insurance.
-> - Getting the half-axles out is a royal pain! To get to the driver's
-> side bolts you have to pull out the back half of the exhaust, and
-> for the life of me I can't pull apart the rusted together compression
-> joints (hints?). Also, what's the secret for pulling the rubber
-> boot and inner flange through the hole in the trailing arm? I
-> found that the whole mess wedged tight in the hole, and the only
-> way I could get one through was by turning the boot inside out --
-> not an easy task.
->
You *can* get the half axles out without dropping the exhaust. I've
written up how to replace them before, and it's somewhere in the archives.
But a brief recap:
Put car in air.
Pull wheels, brake drums.
Unbolt hub (6 7/16" bolts DO NOT OVERTORQUE ON REPLACEMENT!!!)
pull hub and outer half axle out through trailing arm.
replace u-joint on workbench.
Using 12" 3/8" extention, 3/8"-9/16" (1/2?) deep socket, and
3/8" universal, (along with an open end and rachet...) you can now
get to the bolts that hold the flange to the diff, but only in one
spot, about 11 oclock if memory serves. Wiggle it all around until
you can get the socket onto the bolt, then crank it off.
Rotate the flange 90 deg and repeat until inner half shaft falls to
the floor.
If you cannot get the inner and outer axles separated, you've got
more important problems. The splined joint is a very close tolerance
fit, and should be kept well greased with a good waterproof grease,
originally, a lead based grease was used, but I use a high temp molly
grease nowadays. But I do grease them about every 18 months.
Once the inner and outer half axles are separated, they are a piece of
cake to work on. You can do almost everything on the workbench, though
the first time you replace u-joints may take a press. Coat the
cups on the new u-joints with a thing coating of grease or never-seize
and you will be able to replace them in a bench vise in the future.
Once you get the hang of it, replacing u-joints is easy. Should take
about an hour and 15 minutes to do a side.
-> - Finally, the U-joints on one axle are tight while there's just a hint
-> of play in the other. I'm inclined to change out the lot just so that
-> I don't have to do this again. Does this sound reasonable?
->
If you drive in a spirited fashion, get used to replacing them. And,
yes, do them all at once the first time. And get the u-joints with the grease
nipples.
Good Luck!
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