to the question on TR6 clutch ajustment Roger had good answers:
|
| -------if someone tries these, let me know and I can update this------
| Adjusting the TR6 clutch is easy, it doesn't, so you don't...
| You need to fix this ASAP before you ruin the transmission, there
| are two problems:
| 1. the slave bleed is not at the top of the air pocket, so break
| the bleed screw loose (not off ?), remove the 2 bolts from the
| bracket to the transmission and the cotter pin clip, tilt the
| whole thing vertical and point the rod into a 4" block (don't strain
| the brittle line!), loosen the bleed, push down on the cylinder
| against the rod until you have a flow of fluid on your hand and
| tighten the bleed. Using your left hand and operating the 7/16
| box end bleed wrench with your thumb works for me. This leaves
| the right hand free to hold the ale... oh, raise the left frt 1st.
|
| 2. My experience has been the clutch master rebuilds easily as its
| aluminum, DON'T cut the inside, just use a toothbrush (tastes funny,
| but ??) while the slave is impossible to rebuild, seems its made of
| iron and rusts from the water in the fluid, and due to the long movement
| it sucks in air over time, I have carefully rebuilt 3 of these and they
| all degraded over time to the point I had to bleed them monthly (no
|leaks).
| Buying a new one solves the problem, if I do it again I would use silicon
| fluid and put a label on the master lid saying DOT 5 only, this should
| solve the longer term pitting problem.
|
I would offer just one additional suggestion to all TR6 owners:
consider converting your slave cylinder springs and clevis from the TR6 style
to TR2, TR3, TR4 style.
TR6s frequently ware out their throwout bearings beacause they went to a
"no ajustment" clevis push rod and put a spring inside the slave cylinder,
which pushes the throwout bearing lightly into engagement with the clutch.
Therefore the throwout bearing is spinning all the time even when your foot
is not on the clutch. This puts hundreds of times the revolutions on it.
The earlier TRs used the same slave cylinder but without an internal spring,
instead the have an outside spring which pulls the clutch arm back out of
engagement when your foot is off the clutch. this is used in conjunction with
an ajustable clevis and pushrod which you ajust so the throwout bearing is
just out of engagement with the clutch when your foot is off the clutch.
TR6s have a well earned reputation for waring out throwout bearings older
TRs use most of the same parts but without that problem. You have to crawl
under the old ones every year or two and make a small ajustment, but thats
a lot better then pulling the tranmission every few years to replace the
throwout bearing!
Beyond the above comments there are two other posable explanations for a
TR6 clutch having a very long throw. I've seen them both mor then once:
1 if someone put a master cylinder with a smaller bore on the car
it will require much more travel to disengage the clutch. There
are lots of other britcar master cylinders that at first glance
look the same, and mount interchangeably, but have duifferent bores.
2 the pin which holds the clutch fork to its shaft (inside the
bellhousing
sometimes cracks. When they do it allows the for to rotate part way
everything
goes out of ajustment. If that's what is happening the next step is
it brakes the rest of the way and scores up the shaft so it's hard to
fix.
I hope this is not your problem beacause it means pulling the
transmission.
good luck /I hope it turns out to be a simple problem/ dickn
|