-------if someone tries these, let me know and I can update this------
Adjusting the TR6 clutch is easy, it doesn't, so you don't...
You need to fix this ASAP before you ruin the transmission, there
are two problems:
1. the slave bleed is not at the top of the air pocket, so break
the bleed screw loose (not off ?), remove the 2 bolts from the
bracket to the transmission and the cotter pin clip, tilt the
whole thing vertical and point the rod into a 4" block (don't strain
the brittle line!), loosen the bleed, push down on the cylinder
against the rod until you have a flow of fluid on your hand and
tighten the bleed. Using your left hand and operating the 7/16
box end bleed wrench with your thumb works for me. This leaves
the right hand free to hold the ale... oh, raise the left frt 1st.
2. My experience has been the clutch master rebuilds easily as its
aluminum, DON'T cut the inside, just use a toothbrush (tastes funny,
but ??) while the slave is impossible to rebuild, seems its made of
iron and rusts from the water in the fluid, and due to the long movement
it sucks in air over time, I have carefully rebuilt 3 of these and they
all degraded over time to the point I had to bleed them monthly (no leaks).
Buying a new one solves the problem, if I do it again I would use silicon
fluid and put a label on the master lid saying DOT 5 only, this should
solve the longer term pitting problem.
Easy steering box oil pump - after re-booting my rack-and-pinion
steering and understanding the design, this MUST have 90W oil to
function properly. The rubber boots actually fill with oil, so
everything MUST be tight. Carefully remove the small bolt from
the box top. Be extra careful with the black wire as this grounds
the horn circuit and MUST make electrical contact.
AFTER trying the suggestion of using a grease gun filled with oil,
etc. and managing to dump 90W oil everywhere BUT in the box... this
is someones idea of a joke, and I fell for it! ha, ha!
Buy about 3 feet of 3/16" rubber fuel line and a cheap oil can (type
with a pump), screw the tubing into the bolt hole, its a tight fit!
Fill the can with 90W and plug it into the other end and pump it.
You will have to stop after the boots start to swell (every 2 oz's)
and allow the air to escape by removing the oil can (tube of oil proceeds
the air, so have the paper towels ready), and squeezing the boots.
The process is defined as "burping the boots". My Kmart oil can was
4 oz. and it took a little over a can to fill it up. Just don't
blow the boots out. Now remove the hose, clean up the mess and
replace the screw. Unless you see grease dripping there is little
reason to check this again. The 90W oil works great on hinges, etc.
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