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| Now the problem. Since I had gotten the car, I had noticed
| that the oil pressure is ~75psi going to 100 (full gauge) on
| revs.
100 is very high. Your bypass valve should hold the maximum
pressure to ~80 or85 lbs. A lower maximum WILL NOT result in a
lower minimum oil pressure. And a higher maximum will not result
in a higher minimum oil pressure.
After a few miles, the car gets down into 50psi at idle.
| After ~30 miles the idle is at 15-20psi going up to 35-40 at
| 3000RPM. I recently replaced the temp. sender and the gauge
| shows cold at the 75psi, 1/2 to 3/4 scale at the 40-50 psi range,
| and is going close to the red when oil was reading the 15psi at
| idle.
This is lower than you want but may be a result of the fact that your
car is way too hot. This could be compounded by using light oil.
You need to get your temp down. Poor ignition timing is one cause of
running hot. As is a very lean fuel mixture. I got one of those engines
past a smog check by retarding the spark and setting the carb lean.
When I left the smog station I didn't reset the ignition. It boiled
over in a couple miles of normal driving on a normal day. When reset
it ran normally. I recomend you consider adding an oil cooler.
They make a BIG differance in how warm your engine gets and how thin the oil
gets
The head gasket leaks a little oil (on the driver's
| side of the block), but there wasn't appreciable oil loss.
Maybe it's wicking along the edge ot the gasket from another source
I bet it might be coming down from the rocker cover. The driver's side
is not a likley place to blow a head gasket on a tr6.
good luck Ken....... //dickn
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