I was able to purchase a newly built hose from a local hydraulic shop
recommended by the Napa dealer. For $39 a 51" hose and new connectors.
The NOS hose is 45"..I had it made 6" longer to keep it out of contact with
the engine.
I would suggest that if yours is laying on the engine that you check the
hose. Mine blew at the point of contact. The hose was so fragile I was
able to rip it in half. The bottom of the hose was probably already
cracking.
I decided against moving the connection outside of the firewall. There is
an O-Ring connection to the evaporator box and I cannot locate a piece of
brass tubing that would have this and make the connection to the hose. The
new connector almost touches the firewall after being installed so there is
not much exposure of the hose under the dash. Still may have an issue with
the high pressure side in the future, but that hose looks like it is in good
shape and it was not exposed to the heat that the low pressure hose had.
Thanks for all the suggestions for things to address. I believe this is my
list now.
1) tape the dash bracket facing the dashboard. Possible contact with
fuseable link in the ammeter could be a mess.
2) close the gap between the fan box and evaporter box.
3) install new front vent ducts.
4) tape the bracket behind the speedometer. Possible contact with electrical
in dash.
5) attach left and right vents to the duct work.
6) replace the foam on top of the defrost vent.
7) may replace the fan. I have not decided on this one yet.
8) replace the expansion valve.
9) touch up some of the rust.
10) fill metal opening behind speedometer with insulation. From reading pas
Bricklin articles this acts as a chimney and moves heat into the driver side
quickly when the engine bay get hot. Temps up to 350. May explain my
drivers side heat issue.
11) place aluminum backed form insulatoin on the cockpit side of the
firewall. Mine has a pretty large gap there and it should help with sound
and heat.
12) remove the remaining plenum weatherstrip. Mine was already cut in the
middle.. I have seen to replace it and remove it to get the heat out of the
engine bay.
13) reinstall dash board with fuseable link to be able to start the car.
14) recharge the system with R-134A, oil charge, leak sealent and detector
and check for leaks in the new connections.
15) reinstall dash
I am sure I will find other things as with each fix I find other things to
do. If all the parts come in I am targetting this weekend to be running
again. Hope to make it back up to the weekly car cruise in where my hose
exploded last Saturday. If all goes well, I can make it to the larger
monthly meet near the local mall next week.
Greg 0036
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