>Are there any additional designs for mufflers and exhaust pipe runs? Is
>there a high performace muffler to fit a Bricklin Stock? Is it necessary?
>I am not thrilled with the way the exhaust pipes come out the rear at that
>odd angle. I would much prefer them to come straight back. What do people
>have experience with? ARe most of you using stock?
>
>Second question. Was there a thread earlier about replacing the rear LEAF
>springs (to avoid the Jerry Springer Bricklin show round #2) One side of my
>car appears to be sagging. Was the general concensus to have them built for
>me, or to have my rebuilt, or are they available somewhere. I do not intend
>on working on the leaf springs drunk, with any artillery, or with the car
>suspended above me precariously, so the information should come without
>concern for my health =)
>
>Thirdly. I have noticed a massive (well not really massive) number of
>people selling their bricklins. Is this normal? I have not been on the
>list too long, but I don't ever rememeber people selling this often. Is it
>a winter thing? am I imagining it (most likely)
>OK
> enough rambling
>
>#466 - Scott <---------(I have come to the conclusion that my car owns me)
Leaf Springs should be left to the .....Just kidding. The Springs are the
same as a V8 Gremlin or Hornet or Spirit or Concord. A number of AMC
vendors have them for sale through their catalog for I believe around $100
a side. Woodward Spring, Main St., Brockton, Mass or Palmer Spring in
Chelsea, Mass are both places our local AMC club members use to have new
ones installed or the rear ones re-arched. However, the rear AMC springs
are one of the weakest part of any AMC. I tell people the sag on the AMX
rear was standard equipment. When you have them rebuilt, have them add
another leaf-AMXs got the extra leaf as part of the Go Pak or Power Pak.
If you still have the Torque Links (and I haven't been convinced you don't
need them by anybody yet) be careful of the bolts because they twist and
snap. Before removing the nuts from the bolts or the U-Bolt clean the
threads with a die or wire brush so the nut doesn't "push" the dirt down
the thread. Also if you have the torque links this would be the time to
adjust them as the bolt is usually to the rear of the elongated slot due to
the rearend torque. The front bolt on the leaf spring may also give you
trouble as it often "welds" itself to the Harrison bushing (inside the
spring loop). A lot of penetrating oil and a good air gun will usually
free it up. Torching it will only cause the rubber to burn, possibly
burning the car as it heats up under the carpets and you don't know it.
Use an air hammer to drive the bolt out. You may have to cut the bolt off.
Make sure the car is supported before you do any work, and not by the rear
axle. The axle sits on top of the spring, so when you take the nuts off,
the axle will stay on the stands, but the car will drop.
Hope this helps.
Thomas M. Benvie
5 Sachem Rock Ave.
East Bridgewater, MA 02333
(508) 378-1423
|