>I'm just curious, because I ended up pulling my adjustable prop valve
>out of the Firebird because I couldn't get enough pressure to the rear.
>There has been discussion of gutting the OE prop valve, THEN adding an
>adjustable valve in the rear line...
If it is the same/similar to the Impala one, this should work.
The Impala SS, stock (4-wheel disc), has proportioning of 97%F/3%R (no, that
is NOT a misprint!). These numbers have been measured on a brake plate
tester by Hunter BTW, and are repeatable on many (stock) cars. This is
because GM used the same proportioning valve as on the disc/drum
Caprice......man, I LOVE those beancounters :^).
A very common mod (it's been done on thousands of the cars in the Impala SS
enthusiast community now) is to "gut" the valve (basically remove a plunger
and spring) and replace the front bolt with an aftermarket one that is not
vented.
After the "bolt" mod, the brake bias is a much better 70%F/30%R.
Car brakes more confidently, easier to modulate, less brake dive, and the
rear brakes are actually DOING something :^).
I know this type of mod is done in the Mustang world as well, and I believe
it can be done to an F-body also.
An "adjustable" proportioning valve should really be called a brake
"limiting" valve. In other words, it can only "limit" line pressure, not
increase it. So if your car has too little rear brake bias, putting the
valve on the rear line will make the problem worse.
Hope this helps!
Ed Runnion Ed_Runnion@RegionOfDoom.com
96 Impala SS, enjoys embarrassing many smaller "sporty" cars in braking
tests
02 Subaru WRX Wagon, getting further from "stock" every day
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