> Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 00:49:21 EST
> From: PAULES56@aol.com
> Subject: Integra questions
>
> I am in the market for a replacement daily-driver street car and have selected
> the Acura Integra because of my satisfaction with Honda products I have
> autocrossed the last 7 years. I am not sure if I will get a GS-R or base
> engine. I'm also not sure if I want a pre or post OBD-II year. Perhaps
> someone out there can help me make my decision by offering opinions on the
> following questions:
>
> 1. At what RPM do you know the VTEC is helping you? Is it worth getting for
> street use?
This is a common mis-conception about VTEC technology. A fundamental
design
parameter of VTEC is to get the best of both worlds, ie 2 cam profiles
to optimize low and high RPM torque. In action, its very *flat*.
You really don't notice anything. The GS-R happens to have a secondary
set of intake runners that open up at 5800 RPM, and that provides
a very small spike on a dyno, but its mostly the noise that makes
you feel faster :)
That being said: remember, we are talking about a 1.8l NA I-4 here.
An LS1 it is NOT :)
Driving the GS-R feels similar to a non-GS-R below 4500. Above it,
it just pulls very well (not that the other integras are slouches).
Its geared short, and likes to rev. If you like bottom end torque,
there are other cars in this price range that are better performers.
The GS-R is also not a strong GS car (just to level your expectations)
but still a blast to drive. In ST-1 or CSP, the mods you are allowed
can make it a very fun car on the street, but again, you usually
will not compete in your respective classes too well, so if you
have national aspirations, choose your car wisely.
> 2. Does anyone have experience with OBD and Non-OBD Integras with either
> engine? I plan only minor performace mods like a K&N airfilter and Cat-Back.
I perfer the non-OBD only becuase if you plan to modify it more, it
helps to not have the OBDII :) Also, 94 and 95 GS-Rs are cheaper,
and come stock with what most integra owners feel are the nicest set of
stock alloys (all alloys are fairly light, 15-16 lb for a 15x6 wheel)
Stock GS-Rs put down 138-144 wheel HP on the dyno. Some green OBD-II
cars are showing 5-6 HP less on the dyno, *however* on the track (1/4)
they run the same times (stock is about 15.5 driven well). Its an open
debate as to whether the OBD-II cars are slower. I lapped at Watkins
Glen with a 96 GS-R and he was *not* slow ;)
> 3. The Solo II rulebook does not seen to class the 97 or 98, non-GS-R. I
> assume it goes in ES with the 90-96 NOC since the 94+ GS-R cars are clased in
> GS.
Yup. B18C integras are in GS (Type R, GS-R). B18Bs are ES (Gen III RS,
LS, SE, GS)
> 4. Is there a "California Emissions Package" and if so what does it do to the
> performance of either engine. Most of the "certified" used cars at the local
> dealer are brought in from CA.
Can't help you. Check Edmunds to see if its an option.
> 5. Anything Integra specific to look for (or look out for) in a used one?
They are fairly bullet proof. If shopping for one with 50+ K miles on
it, I
would:
1. check valve cover for leaks
2. Inspect service records (valves should be adjusted every 30 K)
3. Ask about TSBs performed (there are only a few, none major, but
one is a rattling A pipe on the exhaust)
4. If its has 50K, ask about the clutch, especially a 94 or 95. There
is a very quiet TSB regarding a faulty clutch disc retainer spring.
Mine popped at 55K. I just took it out. THe material on the clutch
had almost 75% left before service intervals, but the spring was
shot, so I had to replace the disc. The TSB only covers the clutch
disc and labor, not the bearings or should the pressure plate be
damaged, the pressure plate. I am rather pissed at Acura as I know
a *lot* of people this has happened to, and they are being very
sneaky about the known defect. I received a Honda replacement,
and looking at the spring retainers...they don't look any more
re-inforced
then the stock ones)
5. Warped rotors. Hondas are very sensitive to wheels not torqued
properly. Any time the tires are rotated and just spun on with
an air gun at Not To Bright or some other similar chain, you
can hose the rotors over time.
6. Break pad wear. OEM rear pads are organic and wear fast. I run
aftermarket pads for better wear and performance.
(Email me privately if you want to see the clutch TSB. I have found
more then one service manager un-aware of it)
>
> With dealer interest rates so low on new cars right now, it is tempting to get
> a 1999 GS-R. With the prices of the used cars, new really is a cost effective
> option.
Used car loan rates are also very low. Used GS-Rs are plentiful, just
remember to deal on the price...dealerships really jack up the re-sale
for suckers.
reference http://integra.vtec.net for all things integra. Its
a perfect place to begin research.
happy hunting,
- b
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