Dave:
Here is some more "old" advice from Jan.
Ron Tebo
Subject: Re: Wooden dash update
Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 19:31:45 -0800
From: "jumpin'jan" <servaij@cris.com>
Organization: SSR Designs
To: tigers@autox.team.net, alpines@autox.team.net
Chris,
Good deal on the veneer job. However, I would like to just mention
to
everyone to use a sprayed-on, automotive clear coat paint instead of the
hardware store's polyurethane varnish. The comparison, of using the auto
clear coat, is night vs. day. If one doesn't have the facilities to
spray paint, your favorite auto body repair shop can do this for you.
Those transfers are made from a type of wax and that maybe the source of
the problems that you mentioned. I have cleared many of those transfers
on helmets that I have painted, and I have never had any problems with
the fish-eyes. Also, these auto finishes can dry quickly to sand out in
about 3-4 hours. Furthermore, the auto clear coat has what is called
"high solids", so that one can really lay down a thicker coat of paint
in one session and it is catalyzed to harden without evaporation, so
that one can keep applying another coat within 3-4 hours. It's great
stuff.
Jan
DAVID GREEN wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I have been hard at work getting "Miss Kitty" 1965 Mk 1 Tiger done.
> Almost there. I have been also working on my S3 GT Alpine and am
> making a dash for it. I am ready to start applying the top coats. I
> plan to do around 12-16 coats for depth. My question is who has used
> automotive urethane clear on the dash and has it held up? How long
> since been done? I have done "Miss Kittys" dash with Minwax spar
> urethane for wood. Looks very good. Been told the automotive finish
> will crack in a few years because of the wood. Thanks for any info on
> this.
> Dave Green B9472549LRXFE & 13 Alpines
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