Dave:
Here is some advice from Jim Leach which I found in my archive.
Ron Tebo
Subject: Re: Dash delamination / Epoxy technology
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 20:22:33 EST
From: TIGEROOTES@aol.com
To: alpines@autox.team.net, tigers@autox.team.net, hillman@can-inc.com
Listers,
Here in Seattle, there are several different Epoxy manufacturers
competing for the boat building trade. Unlike polyesters (like Varithane),
Epoxy remains flexible as well as waterproof, which makes it ideal for the
hot / cold / damp / dry atmosphere an automobile is exposed to. Take a look
at a typical Pizza-Parlor table, and you will often see a cracked Polyester
surface...that is a Polyester resin shrinking. If the table is yellowed,
that is UV damage. Modern special-purpose epoxies have good UV resistant
barriers, Such as System-3 Bartop.
You do NOT want uncured Epoxy on your skin: exposure to Epoxy resin is
known to cause a chemical sensitivity that does not go away, and repeated
exposure will cause liver damage. NEVER wash cured or uncured Epoxy from
your hands with a solvent: use soap and water or a product like Boraxo. I
recommend you contact an Epoxy-specific store and question them about their
products, as the technology is constantly improving, and it is replacing
polyester in many fields. Neat stuff!
Jim Leach PTC Seattle
DAVID GREEN wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> I have been hard at work getting "Miss Kitty" 1965 Mk 1 Tiger done.
> Almost there. I have been also working on my S3 GT Alpine and am
> making a dash for it. I am ready to start applying the top coats. I
> plan to do around 12-16 coats for depth. My question is who has used
> automotive urethane clear on the dash and has it held up? How long
> since been done? I have done "Miss Kittys" dash with Minwax spar
> urethane for wood. Looks very good. Been told the automotive finish
> will crack in a few years because of the wood. Thanks for any info on
> this.
> Dave Green B9472549LRXFE & 13 Alpines
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