Tom:
My car has 9.6:1 compression, 3 angle valve job, 270 degree cam,
ported head and intake manifold, K&N filters, factory dual exhaust, 1.5
rockers.
I am running B1AR needles from Joe Curto (Adjustable carriers
provided by Joe). They work fine and will allow me to adjust my plugs from
black/sooty to paper white. I found the B1AQ needles to be waaay too rich,
and the stock B1AF to be too lean.
Don't forget that you can take a lean set of needles, chuck them in
your drill, and use some 600 grit sand paper to turn them down. Typically
one good squeeze with the sandpaper is all it takes. In your case, the B1AF
needles would only need to be reworked on the thin half of the needle
(power/acceleration). It sounds like the idle and cruise (thicker half)
already work fine.
As for the ping at 2200 to 3000 RPM, sounds like you may have a weak
advance spring in your dizzy.
Cheers,
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tomislav Marincic
Subject: [6pack] SU needle for TR6 Conversion?
<snip>
Has anyone played with the needles already and found a better one to start
with for a TR6 with the usual mods? (9.5:1 CR, GP-2 cam, header/exhaust,
flowed head, 1.65:1 RR)
As a reference, I've tried 4 needles in the ZS carbs:
B1E (jag) :pulled like crazy above 3k, totally undriveable around town
(rich). Would not idle.
B1AQ (stag) better around town, still too rich. Lumpy, high idle.
B1AF (TR6) Nice consistent idle, too lean above 3k, pings from 2200-3000 at
more than 1/2 throttle, no power above 4k
I'm currently running B2Y (TR250) needles that I converted to
adjustable-type by using the needle housings from my B1AF's.
<snip>
Cheers, Tom
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