John, my experience is that the shaft wears and the pads on the ends of the
rockers wear and eventually the rockers cant be adjusted and due to the way
the pads are hardened you cant just grind them flat. The roller rocker
alleviate both of these problems and in addition offer other options for
greater ratios that open the valves wider and get more combustables into the
chamber. If your rocker assembly needs to be replaced the roller rockers will
cost you a few hundred dollars more.
I wanted a complete system that worked together so I went with Richards GP2
cam, shortened tubular pushrods, valve guides/seals and springs and roller
rockers and I have no regrets. The engine dyno's at 105 rwhp (9.6:a1 c/r) and
I haven't touched the ignition or exhaust yet so I'm assuming I have another
10HP locked up waiting to be freed, more if I flow the head. Performance is
comparable to the early PI which was my goal. I have a few tips if you do go
down the Goodparts path.
FTD is Fastest Time of the Day.
Stan
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of janah@att.net
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 3:46 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Rockers or Rollers?
Hi all-
Please forgive the cute subject line, but I wanted to get some input
regarding
rocker assemblies as I am reaching the point in my engine rebuild where I
need
to think about the head. I have many questions.
What exactly wears in the rocker assembly?
I hear that the TR6 rockers can't be bushed?
Does this mean that the Rocker Arms need to be replaced?
Does it make sense to go with roller rockers instead?
Holland & Sharpe vs. Richard Good?
I really hate valve clatter (sewing machine sound). If I were to go with
roller rockers would this go away?
Do I need to replace the pedestals?
The rocker assembly uses springs to keep the rockers in place. I have seen
spacers that take the place of the springs. So springs or spacers?
Thanks for Now,
John Cyg
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