In theory, it shouldn't make any difference if one of the ground strap
stops is connected to the bellhousing or the engine. After all, they're
bolted together. In practice, tho, the bellhousing connection can get
insulated with paint or debris, and limit the grounding. I use the
shieled cable, but found I needed to make another connection between the
engine and body to get the voltmeter reading correct, when accessories
were on.
A tip here is to turn on your car radio. Stand on the ground and touch
the antenna. If the volume increases, your ground isn't as good as it
could be. That was one of the clues for me.
Dick
m.net From: Darcy_Hunter@Instron.com(Hunter, Darcy)
My understanding it that the battery should be grounded at the bell
housing but also to the firewall via a bolt that is on the firewall just
behind the accelerator pedal shaft. Looks like it should be a braided
cable with a metal clamp on the cable partway between the battery and
the bell housing. The firewall bolt goes through the clamp and into the
firewall. I plan on taking extra care to ensure there is no dirt or
paint between the clamp and firewall. I've heard someone say the path is
battery to bell housing back up to the firewall. Doesn't seems as
logical but that no indicator of how it would have been originally
engineered.
Darcy
Just an update on obtaining the proper TR6 ground
Received part #T56 from TRF and it looks good. It is a bare braided 22"
long. 14 inches from the terminal connector is a metal connector that is
clamped around the braided cable which is where you would bolt through
to attach to the firewall before going on to the engine. I was at Brits
Bits earlier this week and saw 2 TR6s, one had the correct cable, the
other was missing the correct cable and incorrectly grounded like mine.
I suspect there will be an issue with dirt getting imbedded in the cable
but I do plan on spraying on some type of anti-corrosive. Cable cost
about $27.
Darcy Hunter
'73 TR6
North Easton, MA
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