6pack
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Body Mounting Question (longish)

To: Aledotr6@aol.com, 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>,
Subject: Re: Body Mounting Question (longish)
From: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 15:35:30 -0500
Hi Bud,

I'm about to do this myself on my TR250. Can you send me any responses you get?

I read somewhere that you should start in the center and work towards both 
front and rear at the
same time.

Seems you would want the doors and fenders on while you were doing it so you 
could see how things
were going.

The center sill pads do seem like a puzzle. In my case, I would have to take 
the doors and fenders
off to reinstall the bracing and lift the body. Maybe closing the doors is 
enough to lift it a
little to get to the sill shims???

Starting to scare me....


Don Malling



Aledotr6@aol.com wrote:
 > Hello all,
 >
 > I am finally putting my TR6 body back on it's frame after two years. I had
 > saved and labeled all of the original pads and am using them as an initial 
 >guide
 > before I fit the wings and doors for final adjustment. I started from the
 > front and worked my back, leaving a few turns of the bolts to go so that I 
 >could
 > shift the body as needed. I was surprised and pleased that all the pads were
 > going into place exactly like the original. That is, until I got to the
 > differential cross member. The original had one aluminum pad on each side, 
 >and that
 > is what is required per the TRF fit kit. However, it now takes two pads to 
 >fill
 > the gap. The rear most mounting point still needs one pad, as per original,
 > so it doesn't seem as though the rear bowed down while off the frame. I did
 > have angle iron welded across the door openings to prevent this.
 >
 > Anyone have any suggestions as to what is happening? Am I worrying about
 > nothing?
 >
 > One more question. The TRF mounting kit mentions that the sill bracket
 > mountings are where you adjust the door gap. I assume to close the upper rear 
 >gap
 > (which seems a bit much before I took it off), you would reduce the number of
 > shims on the rear bracket.  If you need to do that, how do you get to them? 
 >The
 > bracket and sill seem to effectively box in the shims. I can't imagine getting
 > to them without lifting the body again. Is the correct method and can you
 > easily add or remove shims to that area?
 >
 > Thank for you help,
 >
 > Bud Trussell




<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>