Peter---It's been quite a while since I've "turned the bolt around" but
don't think I removed the trailing arm to do so. Try just removing the
road spring and shock, and the other trailing arm backet. You should now
be able to tip the arm down below the frame, with the shim pack and two
bracket bolts removed.
Dick
From: vze2846b@verizon.net (Peter Macholdt) Date: Mon, Feb 23,
Subject: Trailing arm brackets
I took the 250 to my garage for a 4 wheel alignment this morning. As
suggested, I had them first give me the rear wheel camber number. Using
the table on the Buckeye site, I figured that I needed to swap out the
inner 1-notch bracket with a 2-notch bracket.
So, I'm at the garage with the car in the air and we are trying to
figure out how to get this inner bracket free of the car. The pivot bolt
is in its original configuration (eg the nut is facing the other
bracket). Neither I nor the mechanic could figure out how to remove the
bolt. I'm now at the point where I'm going to remove the trailing arm
and swap the bracket.
Two questions. The first is has anybody figured out how to remove the
inner bracket without disassembling the trailing arm? The second is does
anybody have experience with running the bolt in the more reasonable
orientation (nut inboard)? I know that at one time Dick T speculated
that the bolt might hit the frame if it were reversed. Is this true.
Thanks,
Peter
'68 TR250
|