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Re: Welding the block???

To: tr6_1969@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: Welding the block???
From: "steve bridge" <slbridge@hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 19:28:39 +0000
Hi Dave,

  I have had a bit of experience with projects like you face now. It's 
daunting if you have never done it before, but it's not as bad as one 
imagines.  I would use a 3/32 stainless steel rod , type 308.  It is a 
small, high nickel rod that mixes with cast very well.  You will never cut 
it except with a stone, but for your needs it is suitable.  It is a stick 
rod so you will need a 220 welder. Use a heated piece of 1/4 inch thick 
steel to get the amperage and puddle you like before going to the block.  To 
get the right heat setting turn the heat up until you are sure it is too 
hot.  People tend to set machines cool as they are afraid of burning a hole, 
but if you are too cool, you get poor penetration. You're welding flat so 
you can get away with much more heat which means better penetration. If you 
are making a puddle of weld 1/2 inch in diameter or larger, I would start in 
the center and really burn it in before moving away from center in a 
Nautilus pattern. This rod is a dream to use, very smooth and tractable. The 
block must be clean, scrubbed with a toothbrush full of acetone and blown 
clear with the air hose.  The cast has to be heated thoroughly and then some 
before you make your puddle of metal on your hole (300+ degrees ).  After 
the weld, it must be cooled slowly; this is critical, the rod material and 
block naturally cool at different rates so you have to control the cool 
down.  A guy could start the car after( if you suspect oil is penetrating 
through the casting, do not run engine until after the weld, oil messes with 
the welding process ) the welding and keep the weld area heated while the 
car comes  to operating temp. While the motor is warming ,  the rest of the 
block and head are absorbing the heat from your weld area, don't let it, 
keep the torch on the weld, though you don't have to keep it 300+ anymore. 
Then shut the motor off covering the area welded with insulation of some 
type, the more the better.  After that first heat cycle, the block and 
stainless become one and it will not crack.  The cracks people experience 
come from the two metals cooling at differing rates. When that happens, they 
will pull away from each other, but don't stress, you'll be fine.

To the List:
  Though I have had much success with the techniques described above, I am 
always looking for a better, cheaper, or easier way to do anything...
Steve

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