Hi Mark,
I haven't followed this too closely but I'm guessing that somewhere in
this troubleshooting process the points/condenser/coil leads are shorted
to the distributor case/base due to either mis-installation regarding the
post insulator or cracked insulation on the wires. Very common problem
if you aren't real familiar with points.
Are you getting a good spark at the plugs?
Rotate the engine til the points are open.
Measure the continuity between the distributor case and each side of the
points. You should only have continuity on one side.
With the key in the ON position check for spark at the points.
If your points are in the closed position, open them and see if you get a
spark. You should.
If your points are in the OPEN position, bridge the gap with a
screwdriver? Do you get a spark? You should.
If no sparkey, first verify that the coil is wired correctly...the
negative side of the coil should be connected to the points. Once
verified, place a jumper from the positive side of the battery to the
positive side of the coil. See if the car starts or at least fires. If
it does, your ignition system seems to be ok from the coil through the
distributor to the plugs.
Don't rule out the possibility of a defective new parts....happens more
than you might think.
Hope this gets you going in the right direction.
Jay
===========
On Thu, 13 Feb 2003 19:43:19 -0800 (PST) mbullard
<mbullard@hawaii.rr.com> writes:
> Sorry folks,
>
> Once I got home, I changed the condenser, points (gaped correctly),
> rotor,
> cap, wires, plugs (gaped correctly, checked twice.) coil, flushed
> the
> cooling system, replaced the heater control valve. Additionally,
> I've
> replaced terminal bush and lead from the rotor to coil and
> connecting wire.
>
>
> I can't think of anything else.
>
> Mike, your tickets our on the way...
>
>
>
> >On Thu, 13 Feb 2003 22:18:08 -0500 "Mike Munson"
> <fasttrs@mindspring.com>
> wrote.
> >Mark,
> >
> >The only way you are going to get your car running right again is
> to
> >send me a couple of tickets so my wife and I can fly out and work
> on it.
> >
> >
> >Mike Munson
> >Snellville, Ga.
> >73-6
> >70-6 racecar
> >80-8
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
> >Behalf Of mbullard
> >Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2003 9:18 PM
> >To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> >Subject: She no run...
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >I am more than likely going to be calling on all of you often from
> this
> >point until I die, but that's the only way I going to learn right?
> I
> >have to
> >tell you, I've never worked on cars before (woodworking has always
> been
> >my
> >hobby)but I am determined and able to learn.
> >
> >
> >My car ('74 TR6) started acting funny (missing, backfiring and
> just
> >sounding
> >bogged down) shortly after I got it back to Hawaii. I had a
> mechanic
> >friend
> >come over and he adjusted the timing and all was fine for a day or
> so
> >and it
> >started back up again.
> >
> >I then sent the list a request a week and a half ago (it never
> went
> >through
> >and I didn't resend) asking if it might be the carbs and if I
> should
> >rebuild. The car had been siting for some time, then driven 2500
> miles
> >and
> >then sat for three weeks until I got it in Hawaii.
> >
> >I wanted to take it on so instead of asking the people who know, I
> >rebuilt
> >the carbs. My rebuild stopped at replacing the needles while I wait
> for
> >the
> >adjustment tool from TRF... but I am very proud of myself and think
> I
> >did a
> >pretty good job but I have the same problem. The car won't start.
> It
> >trys
> >real hard, even grabs sometimes but it sounds horrible. I'm hoping
> that
> >it's just because the carbs aren't fully sync'd and adjusted but
> it's
> >sounding the same as before the carbs were rebuilt so I'm looking
> for
> >other
> >possibilities just in case.
> >
> >Any thoughts will be appreciated.
> >
> >Mahalo,
> >
> >
> >Mark Bullard
> >'74 TR6 (that's asking why she was brought all the way to Hawaii to
> sit
> >in
> >the garage)
> >
> >
>
> Mark Bullard
> '74 Tr6
> CF24345U
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