Peter,
I spoke with John
Espisito,Quantumechanicshttp://quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex
&catid=9) about this in depth. The axle stubs came out pretty easy on mine, I
was going to have the stubs pressed out, but I noticed that I had a pinion
tooth in the wrong place. Well it was not on the pinion.
But anyway I checked another diff and was going to remove the pinion, but
became concerned about the collapsible spacer fitted in some diffs. Seems you
only get one chance to torque it down. Which means you need to set the
backlash (?) with a new spacer. John told me that the only way to tell is when
you've pulled the pinion flange, then it's too late, because it will need to
be set up professionally.
If you have the shims, all you do is pull the flange, replace the seal and
re-torque it to the specified torque.
A note on the seals, for the pinion, don't use the original leather type. It
will always seep. Get a rubber seal. If you do use the leather, it needs to be
soaked for a while before installing.
Check the flange for pitting or a groove, if it has either, replace with
another. I've heard you can have a machine shop put a sleeve on it to correct
imperfections, but I never looked into it.
I guess that Triumph switched to the collapsible spacer on the latter cars
since mine had shims and was from a '69 TR6. Not sure when the switch was made
and neither was John E.
I hope this doesn't confusion and I'm sure others on the list may be more
knowledgeable.
Richard Seaton
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Macholdt
Sent: Thursday, December 05, 2002 8:08 PM
To: 6pack list
Subject: Differential
OK, time to tackle the (leaky) differential seals.
Tonight, I drilled and tapped a hole in the bottom of the diff to fit a 3/8"
pipe plug (same size as the filler hole. I installed one of those brass
plugs with the magnetic post in the center.
I have read and been told how tough it is to work on the inside of the diff.
Is replacing the front and side seals on a solid spacer diff also tough?
I have fabricated a "wrench" from a piece of 5/16" steel. It is about 5"
wide and 36" long and bolts to the drive flange. I cut a hole in center of
the bolt pattern so I can get my socket onto the nut. I'll put a 36" length
of pipe on my 1/2" ratchet handle. I figure that this should be enough
torque to loosen the nuts.
The next step is to pull the flanges from the inner axle shafts. I've got a
BIG gear puller and hope that it exerts enough leverage.
Finally, I have to pull the seals. Are these really stuck in there, or are
they going to come out easily? Any tips for getting the new ones in easily?
Does the above sound reasonable or am I dreaming to think that the above
will work?
Thanks,
Peter
'68 TR250
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