Just a quick follow-up:
Well, I finally got it all back together.
For what its work (FWIW - I'm not used to this computer short-hand), it took
4 tons and an Enerpac press to push the wheel studs into position. I took
everyones advise and used an appropriate nut and 1/2" impact - all it did
was tear up the one of the stud. Before using the Enerpac press, I tried
pressing them in with an old arber (sp?) press at work - all I did was shear
the (approx.) 1/8" key at the pinion gear. The hydraulic press - at 4000
psi, pushed them in very nice. Maybe the new replacement parts are slightly
oversized making the press fit tighter - don't know?
And - since I had the assembly out - I chanced one of the U-joints (closest
to the differential) with a new one that I bought in TRF's tent at Mid-Ohio
last Saturday. With some persuasion - that went together OK too.
And... I adjusted the 0.007 end float to just about 0.002.
I should be ready to go now (hope nothing else is lerking around the
corner).
So - hope no one else breaks a wheel stud.
Phil Pallone
74 TR6
CF22155U
----- Original Message -----
From: James Franks <jimmble@adelphia.net>
To: Phillip J. Pallone <ppallones@core.com>
Cc: Six pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: rear lug stud installation
> Phil,
>
> An impact wrench is THE tool for this job. I have a group of washers and
> a large diameter lug nut I use to draw the new studs in. You should try
> to hit the splines in the same grooves as the old studs, or they can
> become stripped out. A hammer is, as you suppose, asking for trouble. If
> you can't get them in, you can pull your hubs off, bring them to me, and
> I can do them for you. I'm in your general area.
>
> Jim
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phillip J. Pallone" <ppallones@core.com>
> To: <6Pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 12:28 AM
> Subject: rear lug stud installation
>
>
> > Hello All!
> >
> > I've posted a couple of questions already on this list with many
> responses -
> > thanks! Some of my previous questions I must admit sounded like they
> came
> > from a "newbee" (which I admit I am). But this one may stump a few of
> > you...
> >
> > I have a 74 TR6. I discovered the other day while checking out my
> rear
> > brakes that a wheel stud was broken (it actually broke in my hands as
> I was
> > putting the wheel back on - pretty lucky really). I promptly removed
> the
> > broken one, plus the other 3 (big mistake) per Bentley by "gently"
> tapping
> > them out. They all came out. I bought 8 new ones from TRF with the
> intent
> > to change them all.
> >
> > My question is: is there a trick to installing them? I took about 6
> or so
> > washers (yes - the first 3 had a larger ID to accommodate the larger
> OD of
> > the stud near the head), assembled them, and started rapping away. I
> used a
> > large screw driver under the washers and wedged it against the
> concrete
> > floor. I used the lug nut to try to draw the stud in. It worked for
> the
> > first few turns, then the force I applied down lifted the rear wheel
> > suspension - to the point where the screw driver became dislodged. I
> looked
> > for other ways to get some leverage, but no success (I didn't want to
> break
> > anything). I also reinstalled the drum and wheel, lowered the car to
> the
> > ground, and tried to really hammer the lug studs to try to draw the
> them in.
> > Still no success - there is still about 1/16-1/8 to go before the
> tapered
> > head seats.
> >
> > I'm also worried about damaging the bearings with all the pounding. I
> > measured about 0.006-0.007 inch end play, which is already above the
> max
> > that Bentley recommends.
> >
> > With all the studs about 75% of the way in, I could probably drive it
> to a
> > garage for some help - but of course would rather do it myself.
> >
> > I'll eagerly await any responses - we have at least a few more days of
> good
> > weather in Cleveland before it starts to snow again!
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Phil Pallone
> > CF22155U
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