Hi,
Regarding flywheel weight...
The stock TR6 flywheel is _heavy_. Maybe 30 pounds. I know that the one I
used for "ballast" in my race car was 28 pounds - but that's a story in
and of itself.
If you knock that down to under 20 pounds, it will help. If you cut it
down to 15 pounds, it'll really help. prirace.com can hack your flywheel
to 14 pounds (but it ain't cheap).
There are also light steel flywheels from Cambridge Motorsport, I'm not
sure about others.
Then there's aluminium... big $$$ but really light. I have a Tilton
flywheel on the race car (forget about buying one, near as I can tell
Tilton is not a source for these any more) it weighs in at 11 pounds.
However, I see that Racetorations has aluminium flywheels (granted the
cost is a bit high at nearly $600 US) and I know that there's a guy in the
midwest making them from billet material and CNC machining - these cost
something between $300 and $350. Talk to Ted Schumacher at TS Imports if
you might be interested. Don't hold me to the price. :-)
Regarding the race car, does that motor spool up fast! WOW. If you are at
idle and punch the gas, the things revs to 4000 before you can say "hold
on!".
As far as drivability, I'm pretty used to driving with the lightened
flywheel and the fact that you can get the motor to spin to whatever revs
you need for a given situation, I'd say the driveability is actually
_better_ than the heavy steel unit.
The one drawback to the light flywheel is that you _must_ rev the motor a
bit to start from a dead stop. But after you get used to it, it's no big
deal. I have to drive the race car at walking speed in the paddock, and I
can do that with not problem, although some of that drivability might be
due to the 4.88 gears, it's pretty hard to stall the car.
But I stand by the assertion that a lightened flywheel is a really cheap
performance enhancement for any car.
If you cut your stock wheel, please use caution and get the flywheel and
pressure plate balanced!!!
Zoom, zoom,
rml
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