Mark,
hmmmmm... I think I encountered something similar to this with my master
cylinder after the rebuild. Have some one push down the brake pedal (not too
fast! or with the cover on) And look too see if there's a bunch of fluid
being diverted back into the reservoir. The 'tip valve' I guess its called
may have been installed incorrectly after the rebuild. I had to go back and
fix that when I did my brake master cylinder.
Now I would like to dispense a bit of opinion. In my experience with my
brake cylinder, it worked for awhile, it sat for a year or so while I
finished the rest of the car... then I used it for about 6 months or so..
everything still fine. Then it began to leak, I didn't realize, even though
I should have been paying more attention, anyway bottom line, I lost my
brakes and it wasn't fun. So if your cylinder is at all pitted or
deteriorating I'd recommend the brass sleaving while you have it out and
your working on it. Save your self the trouble later, and maybe some ruined
paint! (I hate DOT 3 brake fluid, so very very much!) I'm waiting for mine
to come back from AppleHydralics this week.. we'll see how it turned out.
My 2¢
Kendall
74 1/2
on 4/20/00 7:18 PM, TR6me@cs.com at TR6me@cs.com wrote:
> I recently got a 74 tr6 that had to have an engine rebuild. With that
> compleat I focused my energy towards the brakes. I rebuilt the master
> cylinder, put new rear cylinders and brakes on and had all the drums and
> rotors turned. Now my problem is when I attempted to bleed the system out
> using my mitivac I can't seem to get all the air out. I have very little
> break pedal after bleeding three times. IM not sure if IM having a master
> cylinder failure or what? I don't see any leaks in the system. Any Ideas?
>
> Mark Johnson
> 73 tr6
> 74 tr6 dads car!
>
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