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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">Sorry. Forgot to reply to all.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""> Ed Sass
<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 19, 2015 9:05 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Dan Stutter'<br>
<b>Subject:</b> RE: [Thelist] Clutch slave cylinder query<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">Hi Dan,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">Just had to rebuild my slave cylinder during an MG rallye on Friday.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">First, pump the clutch up. If it gets harder after a few pumps, you need to bleed the line. This is best done by removing the two ½ in bolts, remove the
cylinder but keep it connected to the hose. Now using a C-clamp and a piece of wood secure the piston from moving. Now bleed as usual with the bleed screw in the most upright position to remove air. After no air, reassemble. This takes less than 10 minutes.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">If the cylinder does ‘pump up’, i.e. there is no air in the lines, just remove the cylinder as above, disconnect the hydraulic hose (don’t lose the copper
washer) and take the cylinder out of the car. Tap out the steel piston and remove the cup. If the bore is fine, all you need to do is replace the 1-1/8 inch cup which can be sourced at any good auto parts store. If the bore is slightly worn you can sometimes
get by with a light honing or very small grit sandpaper. If it is pitted or pore condition, you can get it resleeved.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">You can always purchase a new unit.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">Tip for all you Magnette owners. Always carry on of the 1-1/8 inch cups in your spares. It took me two hours to find the part, and 5 minutes to fix.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">Ed Sass<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">’58 Magnette<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""> Thelist [<a href="mailto:thelist-bounces@zmgna.org">mailto:thelist-bounces@zmgna.org</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Dan Stutter via Thelist<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 19, 2015 6:25 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Thelist<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Thelist] Clutch slave cylinder query<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p>Hi,<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>As usual, I'm looking for more help from the group. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p>My ZB occasionally sticks in gear and only solution is to turn engine off, disengage, and then turn on again. A bit of a pain when at traffic lights!<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>I suspect the clutch slave cylinder is malfunctioning at times and on inspection it does seem to be leaking a little. (See pictures attached).<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>Two queries I hope you can help me with. <o:p></o:p></p>
<p>1. Does my diagnosis sound correct? Assuming body is OK, I therefore just need a repair kit (£14). If body needs replacing that's a bit more expensive (£95).
<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>2. Is this actually a ZB slave cylinder? My car has had a hi-gear Ford type 9 conversion sometime in the past though supposedly that reuses original slave cylinder just remounted on new gearbox. However the pictures don't seem to me to be quite the same
as in my workshop manual - but maybe I'm just not looking properly.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>Dan Stutter,<br>
Manchester, UK. <o:p></o:p></p>
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