<div dir="ltr"><div>The springs are functionally fine. When I was cleaning them, to do a repaint, I noticed that the leaves had some surface rust and the inter spring pads and angle pads were missing /damaged. So I took the springs apart. There was surface rust between the leaves. I cleaned all the leaves, removed rust. Now I want to replace the pads, and if correct, paint the leaves. I found the pads at NTG but they are very pricey. Someone suggested Metro. So, do I paint both sides of each leaf or just the outside of the assembled spring? What other sources for the pads might there be? Thank youfor the help.</div>
<div> </div><div>Joel</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 7:25 AM, Allen Bachelder <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:bachldrs@comcast.net" target="_blank">bachldrs@comcast.net</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div style="word-wrap:break-word">I wouldn't vouch for them anymore. ' Don't even know of any. Having said that, John Twist has a service for MGBs where they re-arch your springs and add a leaf. I've had a pair in my '73GT for 7-8 years now. Ride-height is good and no surprises in ride/handling. ' Don't know if they could do the same for Magnette springs or not.<div>
<br></div><div>FWIW,</div><div><div>Allen<br><div>
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<b><i>Allen & Florrie Bachelder =iii=<<br>Spring Creek Home for Wayward MGs</i></b></div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica;font-size:12px;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;word-wrap:break-word">
<b><i>'57 ZB, '65 B, '69 C/GT, '73 B/GT</i></b></div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica;font-size:12px;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;word-wrap:break-word"><b><i>North Street, MI 48049, USA</i></b></div>
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<font color="#ff0000"><b><i><u>NAMGAR GT39 - REGISTER TODAY!</u></i></b></font></div><div style="word-wrap:break-word"><b><i><span style="font-size:12px"><font color="#ff0000"><a href="http://www.namgar.com/events/article/gt-39_ottawa_ontario/gt-39_get_ready_for_a_whole_lot_of_fun" target="_blank">http://www.namgar.com/events/article/gt-39_ottawa_ontario/gt-39_get_ready_for_a_whole_lot_of_fun</a></font></span><br>
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<br></div><div><div class="h5"><div><div>On Apr 4, 2014, at 12:01 AM, Steve wrote:</div><br><blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">
<div style="font-family:"Calibri";font-size:12pt">
<div>You guys have a heckuva lot better spring shops than we do around here,
apparently. I’ve used three different ones, all with bad results,
and a lot of wasted $$ and time.</div>
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<div style="background:rgb(245,245,245)">
<div><b>From:</b> <a title="mg1948@verizon.net" href="mailto:mg1948@verizon.net" target="_blank">John Marcell</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, April 03, 2014 5:46 PM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="zmagnette@autox.team.net" href="mailto:zmagnette@autox.team.net" target="_blank">List for the Z Magnette Group - North
America</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs</div></div></div>
<div> </div></div>
<div style="font-family:"Calibri";font-size:small;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none;display:inline">
<div>Had mine rearched in Dallas in a shop that still had dirt floors. A time
warp, told the guy what I had & he told me he knew what I needed. Worked
great & cost $30! We're done using cold method vs heat which I read
was best</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Phil<br><br>Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div><br>On Apr 3, 2014, at 7:36 PM, Allen Bachelder <<a href="mailto:bachldrs@comcast.net" target="_blank">bachldrs@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br><br></div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>There was a time - back around 1980 as I recall when you could go to any
<u>good</u> spring shop and get a pair of leaf springs made up. These
shops had all the factory data (spring rates, etc) on hand for just about any
car ever built. They built a set of springs for my '53 Plymouth project
that were perfect. ' Guess those shops have gone the way of ethyl gas
and the re-refined drain oil at 15¢ a quart that I preferred to burn in my '51
Chevy.
<div> </div>
<div>Allen<br>
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<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:helvetica;font-size:12px;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;word-wrap:break-word"><b><i>Allen
& Florrie Bachelder
=iii=<<br>Spring Creek Home for Wayward MGs</i></b></div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:helvetica;font-size:12px;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;word-wrap:break-word"><b><i>'57
ZB, '65 B, '69 C/GT, '73 B/GT</i></b></div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:helvetica;font-size:12px;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;word-wrap:break-word"><b><i>North
Street, MI 48049,
USA</i></b></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div>
</span></div></span></div></span><b><i><span style="font-size:12px"><a href="http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs" target="_blank">http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs</a></span></i></b></div>
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</span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></div></span></div></span></div></span></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div>
</span><br></div></span><br></span><br></div>
<div> </div>
<div>
<div>On Apr 3, 2014, at 7:49 PM, Arch Boston wrote:</div><br>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<div>Steve, the only metals I know anything about ... Gold, plat., and
silver. Tho anneal silver to make it mailable it is heated to around
2000 degrees, cherry red. 3-400 degrees should do zip to
steel. Wouldn't a few mile's abrasion - finished surface to finished
surface, a couple thousand miles at most, wear away the finish? So, you
would have simply metal to metal contact? Arch<br><br>Sent from my
iPad</div>
<div><br>On Apr 3, 2014, at 11:58 AM, "Steve" <<a href="mailto:skirby210@cox.net" target="_blank">skirby210@cox.net</a>>
wrote:<br><br></div>
<div></div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div style="font-family:"Calibri";font-size:12pt">
<div>I’m interested in following the answers to this, as I’ve done
different things, none of which have seemed like a solution I feel
comfortable recommending.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>One question is: what about powder coating? Would seem to
be better than painting, and give some “lube” quality between the
leaves? I’ve done this once, and it seemed to work OK, but then
others have said “the heat process ruined your springs.” Don’t
know about that, from a practical standpoint . . . the
car/springs/suspension “seem” fine. I believe powder coating uses a
temp around 375 – 400ish. That shouldn’t hurt the temper of springs
. . . should it???</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I tried putting some formed rubber “liners” between them, on the
recommendation of someone. Done by some hot rodders, I guess.
Can’t say I liked the results. Worked OK I guess, but looked like
crap . . . . they didn’t stay in place that well, so some edges were
falling out, etc.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I’ve also tried new springs, and that was the worst. Car ended
up being jacked up way too high. Have also had springs re-arced, and
not happy with that either . . . . car was then lopsided, and the spring
shop said, bascially, “that’s the way it goes, its not a perfect science,
type thing.”</div>
<div> </div>
<div>All these experiences were “non” Magnettic, but the “issue” is the
same, eh?</div>
<div> </div>
<div>#2stevek</div>
<div style="font-family:"Calibri";font-size:small;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none;display:inline">
<div style="font:10pt/normal tahoma;font-size-adjust:none;font-stretch:normal">
<div> </div>
<div style="background:rgb(245,245,245)">
<div><b>From:</b> <a title="joel.turtleman@gmail.com" href="mailto:joel.turtleman@gmail.com" target="_blank">Joel
Johnson</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, April 02, 2014 10:46 PM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="zmagnette@autox.team.net" href="mailto:zmagnette@autox.team.net" target="_blank">List for the Z Magnette Group -
North America</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs</div></div></div>
<div> </div></div>
<div style="font-family:"Calibri";font-size:small;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none;display:inline">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Thanks everyone. The rubber pieces I'm referring to is the inter leaf
and angle pads. I have Ed Sweeney's poly bushings for the spring eyes. I
have disassembled the springs and I think I need to protect the inside
from rust. Since there are rubber pads between the leaves, I'm thinking it
would be ok to paint between the leaves? Steve T, I will try that
program.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Joel</div></div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Apr 2, 2014 at 2:59 PM, Kelvin Dodd <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:doddk@mossmotors.com" target="_blank">doddk@mossmotors.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid" class="gmail_quote">
<div lang="EN-US" link="blue" vlink="purple">
<div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";font-size:11pt">The
spring mounting pads are isolated from the frame of the car, so there is
no down side to using them. The replacement rubber pads are kinda
squishy (technical term), so I normally use and recommend poly.
<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";font-size:11pt"><u></u><u></u></span> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";font-size:11pt">The
rear bushes are not the same as MGA/MGB, so you might have limited
alternatives. I used the poly bushings that Edwin Sweeney made up. They
fit perfectly and are not overly stiff. <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";font-size:11pt"><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";font-size:11pt">The
front spring eye bush is also unique to the Magnette and at the time I
worked on my car, the recommended replacement was the MGA front spring
eye bush. This is slightly larger in OD and uses a bigger through bolt.
I did find that a normal work bench vice will allow you to press this
bushing into the spring eye without too much trouble. Since this
conversion works well, I doubt if the Magnette unique spring bushes will
be reproduced. <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";font-size:11pt"><u></u><u></u></span> </p><p class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";font-size:11pt">Kelvin.
<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";font-size:11pt"><u></u><u></u></span> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";font-size:11pt"><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125);font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";font-size:11pt"><u></u><u></u></span> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";font-size:10pt">From:</span></b><span style="font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";font-size:10pt"> <a href="mailto:zmagnette-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">zmagnette-bounces@autox.team.net</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:zmagnette-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">zmagnette-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of
</b>David Halliday<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, April 02, 2014 12:51
PM<br><b>To:</b> List for the Z Magnette Group - North
America<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Zmagnette] Rear
Springs<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<div>
<div><p class="MsoNormal"><u></u><u></u> </p>
<div>
<div><p style="margin-bottom:12pt" class="MsoNormal">Hi
Joel,<u></u><u></u></p></div><p class="MsoNormal">Some may disagree, but I would suggest going to
urethane bushes and spring pads as you change.<u></u><u></u></p>
<div>
<div>
<div><p class="MsoNormal"><br clear="all"><u></u><u></u></p>
<div>
<div><p style="margin-bottom:12pt" class="MsoNormal"><br>Kind
regards,<br><br>David<br><br><u></u><u></u></p></div></div><p style="margin-bottom:12pt" class="MsoNormal"><u></u><u></u> </p>
<div><p class="MsoNormal">On 2 April 2014 20:30, Steven Trovato <<a href="mailto:strovato@optonline.net" target="_blank">strovato@optonline.net</a>> wrote:<u></u><u></u></p><p class="MsoNormal">Joel,<br><br>
I don't have an answer for you about the
springs. Hopefully, someone will provide you with an answer
soon. As far as resizing photos, I use a program called irfanview
on my Windows 7 machine. It is very popular, free, and available
here: <a href="http://www.irfanview.com/" target="_blank">http://www.irfanview.com/</a>. All you have to do is
image, resize, then save. Of course the program has the capability
to do much more, but for a simple resize of a photograph, there's not
much to it. I often also use the "crop" feature. This
eliminates a lot of excess background, focuses attention on the
important part and makes the file smaller as a bonus.<br><br>-Steve
T.<u></u><u></u></p>
<div><p class="MsoNormal"><br><br>At 02:43 PM 4/2/2014, Joel Johnson
wrote:<u></u><u></u></p><p class="MsoNormal">I am refreshing the rear springs on my Magnette
before installing them. Do I paint both sides of each leaf or put them
together and paint the outside? Also what about the rubber bits? They
need to be replaced. Thanks. There will be lots of questions to follow,
I have my Magnette back from body work and am putting it back together.
I'd send a photo, but I can't figure out how to reduce the file size for
email.<u></u><u></u></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u></u><u></u> </p></div><p style="margin-bottom:12pt" class="MsoNormal">_______________________________________________<br>Zmagnette
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