<html><head></head><body bgcolor="#FFFFFF"><div>Steve, the only metals I know anything about ... Gold, plat., and silver. Tho anneal silver to make it mailable it is heated to around 2000 degrees, cherry red. 3-400 degrees should do zip to steel. Wouldn't a few mile's abrasion - finished surface to finished surface, a couple thousand miles at most, wear away the finish? So, you would have simply metal to metal contact? Arch<br><br>Sent from my iPad</div><div><br>On Apr 3, 2014, at 11:58 AM, "Steve" <<a href="mailto:skirby210@cox.net">skirby210@cox.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><div></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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<div>I’m interested in following the answers to this, as I’ve done different
things, none of which have seemed like a solution I feel comfortable
recommending.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>One question is: what about powder coating? Would seem to be
better than painting, and give some “lube” quality between the leaves?
I’ve done this once, and it seemed to work OK, but then others have said “the
heat process ruined your springs.” Don’t know about that, from a
practical standpoint . . . the car/springs/suspension “seem” fine. I
believe powder coating uses a temp around 375 – 400ish. That shouldn’t
hurt the temper of springs . . . should it???</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I tried putting some formed rubber “liners” between them, on the
recommendation of someone. Done by some hot rodders, I guess. Can’t
say I liked the results. Worked OK I guess, but looked like crap . . . .
they didn’t stay in place that well, so some edges were falling out, etc.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I’ve also tried new springs, and that was the worst. Car ended up
being jacked up way too high. Have also had springs re-arced, and not
happy with that either . . . . car was then lopsided, and the spring shop said,
bascially, “that’s the way it goes, its not a perfect science, type
thing.”</div>
<div> </div>
<div>All these experiences were “non” Magnettic, but the “issue” is the same,
eh?</div>
<div> </div>
<div>#2stevek</div>
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<div style="BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<div style="font-color: black"><b>From:</b> <a title="joel.turtleman@gmail.com" href="mailto:joel.turtleman@gmail.com">Joel Johnson</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, April 02, 2014 10:46 PM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="zmagnette@autox.team.net" href="mailto:zmagnette@autox.team.net">List for the Z Magnette Group - North
America</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs</div></div></div>
<div> </div></div>
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<div>Thanks everyone. The rubber pieces I'm referring to is the inter leaf and
angle pads. I have Ed Sweeney's poly bushings for the spring eyes. I have
disassembled the springs and I think I need to protect the inside from rust.
Since there are rubber pads between the leaves, I'm thinking it would be ok to
paint between the leaves? Steve T, I will try that program.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Joel</div></div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Apr 2, 2014 at 2:59 PM, Kelvin Dodd <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:doddk@mossmotors.com" target="_blank">doddk@mossmotors.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid">
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"; COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)">The
spring mounting pads are isolated from the frame of the car, so there is no
down side to using them. The replacement rubber pads are kinda squishy
(technical term), so I normally use and recommend poly.
<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"; COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)"><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"; COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)">The
rear bushes are not the same as MGA/MGB, so you might have limited
alternatives. I used the poly bushings that Edwin Sweeney made up. They fit
perfectly and are not overly stiff. <u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"; COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)"><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"; COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)">The
front spring eye bush is also unique to the Magnette and at the time I worked
on my car, the recommended replacement was the MGA front spring eye bush. This
is slightly larger in OD and uses a bigger through bolt. I did find that a
normal work bench vice will allow you to press this bushing into the spring
eye without too much trouble. Since this conversion works well, I doubt if the
Magnette unique spring bushes will be reproduced. <u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"; COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)"><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"; COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)">Kelvin.
<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"; COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)"><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"; COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)"><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"; COLOR: rgb(31,73,125)"><u></u><u></u></span> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Tahoma","sans-serif""> <a href="mailto:zmagnette-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">zmagnette-bounces@autox.team.net</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:zmagnette-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">zmagnette-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>David
Halliday<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, April 02, 2014 12:51 PM<br><b>To:</b> List
for the Z Magnette Group - North America<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Zmagnette]
Rear Springs<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<div>
<div class="h5">
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u><u></u> </p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 12pt">Hi
Joel,<u></u><u></u></p></div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Some may disagree, but I would suggest going to urethane
bushes and spring pads as you change.<u></u><u></u></p>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br clear="all"><u></u><u></u></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 12pt"><br>Kind
regards,<br><br>David<br><br><u></u><u></u></p></div></div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 12pt"><u></u><u></u> </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On 2 April 2014 20:30, Steven Trovato <<a href="mailto:strovato@optonline.net" target="_blank">strovato@optonline.net</a>> wrote:<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Joel,<br><br>I don't have an answer for you about the
springs. Hopefully, someone will provide you with an answer soon.
As far as resizing photos, I use a program called irfanview on my Windows 7
machine. It is very popular, free, and available here: <a href="http://www.irfanview.com/" target="_blank">http://www.irfanview.com/</a>. All you have to do is
image, resize, then save. Of course the program has the capability to do
much more, but for a simple resize of a photograph, there's not much to
it. I often also use the "crop" feature. This eliminates a lot of
excess background, focuses attention on the important part and makes the file
smaller as a bonus.<br><br>-Steve T.<u></u><u></u></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br><br>At 02:43 PM 4/2/2014, Joel Johnson
wrote:<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I am refreshing the rear springs on my Magnette before
installing them. Do I paint both sides of each leaf or put them together and
paint the outside? Also what about the rubber bits? They need to be replaced.
Thanks. There will be lots of questions to follow, I have my Magnette back
from body work and am putting it back together. I'd send a photo, but I can't
figure out how to reduce the file size for email.<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u><u></u> </p></div>
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