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    The "AC" pump is also known as "Autopulse" and many other names.
    Look up "EP12 fuel pump". It was actually made by Walbro.  <br>
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.fuel-pumps.net/2401crossreference.html">http://www.fuel-pumps.net/2401crossreference.html</a><br>
    Obsolete, replaced by a number of successors. Note that "EP12S" is
    the solid state round replacement, also sold by many others.<br>
    If it is old enough, it has a brass bellows; later rubber bellows.
    Last I looked, the bellows kit (only))was still available. <br>
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/bel_pump.html">http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/bel_pump.html</a><br>
    Points can usually be cleaned. Like most aftermarket pumps, it came
    as low or high pressure, controlled by the main spring inside. You
    want the LP version. I have posted this a million times, where???
    Might be on Dave DuBois' site; Dave can also tell you what that
    recon SU number corresponds to.<br>
    <br>
    FRM<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/13/2013 8:55 PM, Arch Boston
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:33D1D125-AC33-41FD-A20E-C050C3BF1AC0@twc.com"
      type="cite">
      <div>When I bought my Magnette it was in a sad state.  It had an
        AC fuel pump model number </div>
      <div>12V -EP 12. The pump is a good looking aluminum casting. I
        have always wanted to have it reworked.  (I don't know if it
        works or not .  Just assume that with the rubber parts would be
        shot.)<br>
        I also have a SU fuel pump gotten with some other bits and
        pieces marked BMC factory approved rebuilt #4080.  Anyone know
        where the bits to repair the AC pump could be found?  <br>
        Sent from my iPad</div>
      <div><br>
        On Nov 13, 2013, at 7:21 PM, Fletcher Millmore <<a
          moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:gofanu@cust.usachoice.net">gofanu@cust.usachoice.net</a>>
        wrote:<br>
        <br>
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          Water in the carbs can cause this. A slug of water lies in the
          fuel transfer passages in the carb - when it gets sucked up to
          the metering needle, it blocks the jet, as water will not go
          through the same small hole as gas will. When the engine stops
          sucking so hard, the water falls down, letting gas through. If
          you get the demand high enough, the needle is high enough that
          fuel flows around the water, but it still leaves the water in
          the bottom.  (on HS carbs with clear transfer tubes, you can
          actually see this happen) Easiest thing is to dump a double
          dose of DriGas or fuel system cleaner in it - the cans are
          usually for 20 gal, so a whole can is about right. The cleaner
          may also remove varnish etc on float and metering needles.<br>
          Your comment that the filter is of unknown age but is OK is
          wishful guesswork - change it. And when you remove it, bang it
          on something with the inlet end downwards - see if any water
          comes out. Water does not go through good filters easily, but
          it can under some conditions, and it only takes about a half
          cc to block the jet as described. <br>
          (banging the filter like this can get you home when water
          blocks the filter too. In winter, a little water will freeze
          over a filter very easily, making for a very cold walk home.
          This was standard procedure on the big truck, as diesel is
          often contaminated; I finally started using filters with drain
          plugs, which I checked regularly for water.)<br>
          <br>
          FRM<br>
          <br>
          <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/13/2013 5:52 PM, John
            Perkins wrote:<br>
          </div>
          <blockquote cite="mid:528402A6.6050002@attglobal.net"
            type="cite">
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            <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Arch:<br>
                  I once spent a winter evening in my MGB-GT with the
              battery cover off of the car so I could tap the fuel pump
              with the lug wrench every 10 miles for 130 miles to keep
              enough fuel flowing to get me home.  SU Fuel pumps don't
              really die, they become zombies that need to be
              resurrected.<br>
                  I had a similar problem to yours that turned out to be
              worn needles and seats in the carbs.  The seats were worn
              to a point that the needles would stick.  Sometimes the
              rattle from the last gasp of the engine would shake them
              loose, other times a quick rap from the handle end of a
              screwdriver would shake them loose.  Real Grose jets cured
              the issue.<br>
                  Perkins<br>
              <br>
              On 11/13/2013 4:38 PM, Arch Boston wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote
              cite="mid:A34C74B4-5DBC-4531-AA54-B4318CC144A4@twc.com"
              type="cite">
              <div>Jeff, I have had fuel pumps die, but, reserection???
                 I always thought when they died they were dead. <br>
                <br>
                Sent from my iPad</div>
              <div><br>
                On Nov 13, 2013, at 4:34 PM, JEFF ROMANS <<a
                  moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:jromans55@msn.com">jromans55@msn.com</a>>


                wrote:<br>
                <br>
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                  <div dir="ltr"><br>
                    <em>order your fuel pump now...then ready for final
                      failure...</em> on a 100 degree day mine layed
                    down 1 mile from home in parking lot ,after a 100
                    mile trip. once the car cooled down, started right
                    up and drove home. next time wouldnt start. FUEL
                    PUMP TIME.<br>
                     Jeff Romans<br>
                     1958 Magnette ZB<br>
                    <div>> From: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                        href="mailto:arch.boston@twc.com">arch.boston@twc.com</a><br>
                      > Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 16:20:03 -0500<br>
                      > To: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                        href="mailto:zmagnette@autox.team.net">zmagnette@autox.team.net</a><br>
                      > Subject: [Zmagnette] What should I check
                      first???<br>
                      > <br>
                      > My car has developed a problem..... The last
                      few times I have driven the car it does the same
                      thing. It will be running just fine and then it
                      will start to act as if it is running out of gas.
                      Stumbling and trying to die.... After I bleep the
                      throttle a few times thinking it is truly "AAA
                      time" the car will run just fine. There is a fuel
                      filter between the gas tank and fuel pump. The
                      filter doesn't look freshly installed, however, it
                      is not needing replacement. The fuel pump is an
                      electronic unit not SU. Should I suspect the fuel
                      pump? In the past when I needed to replace a pump
                      it was dead --- not working part of the time and
                      fine later. What should I check first??? Arch<br>
                      > <br>
                      > Sent from my iPad<br>
                      >
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