<div dir="ltr"><div>Back in a past life when I worked for a living I would run into the backfiring symptoms you stated. I found that, typically. there are 3 places where I would look. A plugged or restricted exhaust. That was problem when car were fitted double wall exhaust pipes. The inside pipe would collapse. Another was a bad condencer, even if it was new. I wish I still had my condencer tester. and the last was a lean mixture. All of those can come on suddenly, will cause a backfire through the carbs, and limit top speed. I would doubt the restricted pipe but would not rule out a restricted muffler.</div>
<div> </div><div>For the exhaust just put your hand at the end of the pipe and feel if you are getting any exhaust out. For the condencer, just replace it. For the lean mixture, check the fuel delivery to the carbs, pressure and volume. Replace the filter. Check the draw tube in the tank and the filter screen in the bottom of the tank. Have the needles fallen out of the dashpots in the carbs.</div>
<div> </div><div>My Magnette had a combination of all of those that I had to correct before the car would run right. It would run but not well. </div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br clear="all"><div><div dir="ltr"><div>
</div>
<div>Charlie Durning</div>
<div> </div>
<div><font size="4">If you are using Google or Gmail, Big Brother is watching.</font></div>
<div> </div></div></div>
<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 7:35 PM, Fletcher Millmore <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:gofanu@cust.usachoice.net" target="_blank">gofanu@cust.usachoice.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
If changing the coil "fixed it" but it then got worse, it likely had
nothing to do with the coil. And the old coil was providing spark -
a coil cannot tell which cylinder is firing, so should usually be
the same on all holes.<br>
It is possible that a "better coil" would hide and/or exacerbate
some other deficiency, like low voltage to the coil, or faults in
the HT side.<br>
<br>
Check the internal earth lead from the points plate to the
distributor body - they break with age, and cause just this sort of
behavior. The break will be (usually) at one end, but if not the
super fine braid wire will pull out of the braided silk insulation.
It is not rare that these have been replaced by inappropriate stiff
wire, which fails quickly.<br>
<br>
If that is not it, call back with an updated sequential and complete
listing of exactly what has been done/changed and results.<br>
<br>
FRM<div><div class="h5"><br>
<div>On 10/30/2013 7:11 PM,
<a href="mailto:jtdbrough2@netzero.com" target="_blank">jtdbrough2@netzero.com</a> wrote:<br>
</div>
</div></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div class="h5"><br>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div class="gmail_extra">
<div class="gmail_quote">I guess the car just didn't want to
go to a show. Dennis replaced the coil and it seemed to
work fine. The next morning however it started backfiring
A LOT and in juice as it wouldn't go above 40 and then it
would go at speed. possibly wobbly wheel then started up
as well. Fiddling with the distributer seemed to help some
of the back firing issue but it kept happening. so the car
stayed home (started working just fine when we got to
within a mile of the house or so go figure-more than a
mile away not so much whether coming or going) and we
went.</div>
<div class="gmail_quote"> </div>
<div class="gmail_quote">Buckey suggested checking the
dashpots which Dennis hadn't thought to do. Anyone else
have any suggestions? I left to go look at cars so othter
than dashpots I didn;t get the impression that there were
anyother suggestions. </div>
<div class="gmail_quote">Joyce</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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