[Zmagnette] Rear Springs

Fri Apr 4 08:37:59 MDT 2014

For fear of ride Height problems, on recommendation  from my spring place (
been dealing with them since the ‘70’s Jeep days) I just added a new main
leaf with Ed Sweeney’s poly bushes and poly pads and a Rubber bush in front,
someday I’ll see how well it rides.

Mike H.

From: zmagnette-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:zmagnette-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allen Bachelder
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2014 10:25 AM
To: List for the Z Magnette Group - North America
Subject: Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs

I wouldn't vouch for them anymore.  ' Don't even know of any.  Having said
that, John Twist has a service for MGBs where they re-arch your springs and
add a leaf.  I've had a pair in my '73GT for 7-8 years now. Ride-height is
good and no surprises in ride/handling.  ' Don't know if they could do the
same for Magnette springs or not.

FWIW,

Allen

****************************************************************

Allen & Florrie Bachelder       =iii=<
Spring Creek Home for Wayward MGs

'57 ZB, '65 B, '69 C/GT, '73 B/GT

North Street, MI 48049, USA

http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs

NAMGAR GT39 - REGISTER TODAY!

http://www.namgar.com/events/article/gt-39_ottawa_ontario/gt-39_get_ready_fo
r_a_whole_lot_of_fun

****************************************************************************
******************************************

On Apr 4, 2014, at 12:01 AM, Steve wrote:

You guys have a heckuva lot better spring shops than we do around here,
apparently.   I’ve used three different ones, all with bad results, and a
lot of wasted $$ and time.

From: John Marcell <mailto:mg1948 at verizon.net>  

Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2014 5:46 PM

To: List for the Z Magnette Group - North America
<mailto:zmagnette at autox.team.net>  

Subject: Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs

Had mine rearched in Dallas in a shop that still had dirt floors. A time
warp, told the guy what I had & he told me he knew what I needed. Worked
great & cost $30!  We're done using cold method vs heat which I read was
best

Phil

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 3, 2014, at 7:36 PM, Allen Bachelder <bachldrs at comcast.net> wrote:

There was a time - back around 1980 as I recall when you could go to any
good spring shop and get a pair of leaf springs made up.  These shops had
all the factory data (spring rates, etc) on hand for just about any car ever
built.  They built a set of springs for my '53 Plymouth project that were
perfect.  ' Guess those shops have gone the way of ethyl gas and the
re-refined drain oil at 15¢ a quart that I preferred to burn in my '51
Chevy. 

Allen

**************************************************************** 

Allen & Florrie Bachelder       =iii=<
Spring Creek Home for Wayward MGs

'57 ZB, '65 B, '69 C/GT, '73 B/GT

North Street, MI 48049, USA

http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs

NAMGAR GT39 - REGISTER TODAY!

http://www.namgar.com/events/article/gt-39_ottawa_ontario/gt-39_get_ready_fo
r_a_whole_lot_of_fun

****************************************************************************
****************************************** 

On Apr 3, 2014, at 7:49 PM, Arch Boston wrote:

Steve, the only metals I know anything about ... Gold, plat., and silver.
Tho anneal silver to make it mailable it is heated to around 2000 degrees,
cherry red.   3-400 degrees should do zip to steel.  Wouldn't a few mile's
abrasion - finished surface to finished surface, a couple thousand miles at
most, wear away the finish? So, you would have simply metal to metal
contact?  Arch

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 3, 2014, at 11:58 AM, "Steve" <skirby210 at cox.net> wrote:

I’m interested in following the answers to this, as I’ve done different
things, none of which have seemed like a solution I feel comfortable
recommending.

One question is:  what about powder coating?  Would seem to be better than
painting, and give some “lube” quality between the leaves?  I’ve done this
once, and it seemed to work OK, but then others have said “the heat process
ruined your springs.”   Don’t know about that, from a practical standpoint .
. .  the car/springs/suspension “seem” fine.  I believe powder coating uses
a temp around 375 – 400ish.  That shouldn’t hurt the temper of springs . . .
should it???

I tried putting some formed rubber “liners” between them, on the
recommendation of someone.  Done by some hot rodders, I guess.  Can’t say I
liked the results.  Worked OK I guess, but looked like crap . . . . they
didn’t stay in place that well, so some edges were falling out, etc.

I’ve also tried new springs, and that was the worst.  Car ended up being
jacked up way too high.  Have also had springs re-arced, and not happy with
that either . . . . car was then lopsided, and the spring shop said,
bascially, “that’s the way it goes, its not a perfect science, type thing.”

All these experiences were “non” Magnettic, but the “issue” is the same, eh?

#2stevek

From: Joel Johnson <mailto:joel.turtleman at gmail.com>  

Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2014 10:46 PM

To: List for the Z Magnette Group - North America
<mailto:zmagnette at autox.team.net>  

Subject: Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs

Thanks everyone. The rubber pieces I'm referring to is the inter leaf and
angle pads. I have Ed Sweeney's poly bushings for the spring eyes. I have
disassembled the springs and I think I need to protect the inside from rust.
Since there are rubber pads between the leaves, I'm thinking it would be ok
to paint between the leaves? Steve T, I will try that program.

Joel

On Wed, Apr 2, 2014 at 2:59 PM, Kelvin Dodd <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:

The spring mounting pads are isolated from the frame of the car, so there is
no down side to using them. The replacement rubber pads are kinda squishy
(technical term), so I normally use and recommend poly. 

The rear bushes are not the same as MGA/MGB, so you might have limited
alternatives. I used the poly bushings that Edwin Sweeney made up. They fit
perfectly and are not overly stiff. 

The front spring eye bush is also unique to the Magnette and at the time I
worked on my car, the recommended replacement was the MGA front spring eye
bush. This is slightly larger in OD and uses a bigger through bolt. I did
find that a normal work bench vice will allow you to press this bushing into
the spring eye without too much trouble. Since this conversion works well, I
doubt if the Magnette unique spring bushes will be reproduced. 

Kelvin. 

From: zmagnette-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:zmagnette-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Halliday
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2014 12:51 PM
To: List for the Z Magnette Group - North America
Subject: Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs

Hi Joel,

Some may disagree, but I would suggest going to urethane bushes and spring
pads as you change.

Kind regards,

David

On 2 April 2014 20:30, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net> wrote:

Joel,

I don't have an answer for you about the springs.  Hopefully, someone will
provide you with an answer soon.  As far as resizing photos, I use a program
called irfanview on my Windows 7 machine.  It is very popular, free, and
available here:  http://www.irfanview.com/.  All you have to do is image,
resize, then save.  Of course the program has the capability to do much
more, but for a simple resize of a photograph, there's not much to it.  I
often also use the "crop" feature.  This eliminates a lot of excess
background, focuses attention on the important part and makes the file
smaller as a bonus.

-Steve T.

At 02:43 PM 4/2/2014, Joel Johnson wrote:

I am refreshing the rear springs on my Magnette before installing them. Do I
paint both sides of each leaf or put them together and paint the outside?
Also what about the rubber bits? They need to be replaced. Thanks. There
will be lots of questions to follow, I have my Magnette back from body work
and am putting it back together. I'd send a photo, but I can't figure out
how to reduce the file size for email.

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