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LEDs are another way to significantly reduce current through that vulnerable headlamp switch without mounting relays and rewiring.
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Ed
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On 03/14/2026 10:39 AM EDT Jerry Van Vlack via Wpta <wpta@autox.team.net> wrote:
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Tim,
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Start the engine, rev it a few times and then check the battery at the positive terminal. If you get 13 or more volt reading the alternator is working. Normal would be in the 14.3+ volt range. If that's your reading the alternator is fine. Of course as you did; check all of the connections for corrosion and fix that too.
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Running the headlights is not a battery risk but it is a risk to the headlight switch. That's why many of us have installed relays in our headlight system to lower the current draw thru the switch.
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Trust you are enjoying KY, we are having a good time in NC. Especially liking the weather in the mountains. Driving the mountain roads is a bonus too.
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Best
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JVV
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<span style="font-size: 11pt; color: #000000; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"><strong>From:</strong> Wpta <wpta-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim Prell via Wpta <wpta@autox.team.net><br><strong>Sent:</strong> Saturday, March 14, 2026 9:57 AM<br><strong>To:</strong> WPTA <wpta@autox.team.net><br><strong>Subject:</strong> [WPTA] Alternator connection</span>
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I’ve always had a feeling that running the headlights on the TR6 was a risk to the battery and unfortunately that proved true on a run in Kentucky two weeks ago. The acceleration sputttered when past half throttle (fuel starved), the overdrive stopped working and the battery died in the end. That battery was only 4 years old but out of warranty so I swapped it out in an abundance of caution and finally tested the alternator.
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There was no charge above 12 volts when running, tested at the battery terminals. I finally inspected the alternator terminals and found the hot lead completely corroded and broken at the female connector. Discovered Lowe’s doesn’t carry a spade female connector large enough for the 8-10 ha power lead but Autozone did. A relatively simple fix that I should have inspected long ago!
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Hoping there’s nothing more to it but wanted thoughts about the best way to get the alternator tested.
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Thanks in advance,
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Tim
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