<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div dir="auto">If you have > 13volts while running, and with load its good.</div><div dir="auto">Bill</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div id="composer_signature" dir="auto"><div style="font-size:14px;color:#909090" dir="auto">Sent from my Galaxy</div></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div><br></div><div align="left" dir="auto" style="font-size:100%;color:#000000"><div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: Tim Prell via Wpta <wpta@autox.team.net> </div><div>Date: 3/14/26 10:15 AM (GMT-05:00) </div><div>To: WPTA <wpta@autox.team.net> </div><div>Subject: [WPTA] Alternator connection </div><div><br></div></div>I’ve always had a feeling that running the headlights on the TR6 was a risk to the battery and unfortunately that proved true on a run in Kentucky two weeks ago. The acceleration sputttered when past half throttle (fuel starved), the overdrive stopped working and the battery died in the end. That battery was only 4 years old but out of warranty so I swapped it out in an abundance of caution and finally tested the alternator. <div><br></div><div>There was no charge above 12 volts when running, tested at the battery terminals. I finally inspected the alternator terminals and found the hot lead completely corroded and broken at the female connector. Discovered Lowe’s doesn’t carry a spade female connector large enough for the 8-10 ha power lead but Autozone did. A relatively simple fix that I should have inspected long ago!</div><div><br></div><div>Hoping there’s nothing more to it but wanted thoughts about the best way to get the alternator tested.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks in advance,</div><div>Tim</div>
</body></html>