<html class="apple-mail-supports-explicit-dark-mode"><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">Always “ part it out” as an option 🤣<br id="lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature"><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Mar 14, 2026, at 12:38 PM, Ed Major via Wpta <wpta@autox.team.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
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<span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">They will also test it on the car. But they also will try to sell you a battery.</span>
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On 03/14/2026 11:06 AM EDT wjstash via Wpta <wpta@autox.team.net> wrote:
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Or pull it and take to auto store. Most will test alternators
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Sent from my Galaxy
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-------- Original message --------
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From: Tim Prell via Wpta <wpta@autox.team.net>
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Date: 3/14/26 10:15 AM (GMT-05:00)
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To: WPTA <wpta@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [WPTA] Alternator connection
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</div> I’ve always had a feeling that running the headlights on the TR6 was a risk to the battery and unfortunately that proved true on a run in Kentucky two weeks ago. The acceleration sputttered when past half throttle (fuel starved), the overdrive stopped working and the battery died in the end. That battery was only 4 years old but out of warranty so I swapped it out in an abundance of caution and finally tested the alternator.
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There was no charge above 12 volts when running, tested at the battery terminals. I finally inspected the alternator terminals and found the hot lead completely corroded and broken at the female connector. Discovered Lowe’s doesn’t carry a spade female connector large enough for the 8-10 ha power lead but Autozone did. A relatively simple fix that I should have inspected long ago!
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Hoping there’s nothing more to it but wanted thoughts about the best way to get the alternator tested.
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Thanks in advance,
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Tim
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