[WPTA] Alternator connection

[Jerry Van Vlack]

Ed always has a better idea. And simpler too.

JVV
________________________________
From: EDWARD WOODS <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2026 10:32 AM
To: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com>; Jerry Van Vlack via Wpta <wpta at autox.team.net>; Tim Prell <tjprell at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [WPTA] Alternator connection

LEDs are another way to significantly reduce current through that vulnerable headlamp switch without mounting relays and rewiring.

Ed
On 03/14/2026 10:39 AM EDT Jerry Van Vlack via Wpta <wpta at autox.team.net> wrote:


Tim,

Start the engine, rev it a few times and then check the battery at the positive terminal. If you get 13 or more volt reading the alternator is working. Normal would be in the 14.3+ volt range. If that's your reading the alternator is fine. Of course as you did; check all of the connections for corrosion and fix that too.

Running the headlights is not a battery risk but it is a risk to the headlight switch. That's why many  of us have installed relays in our headlight system to lower the current draw thru the switch.

Trust you are enjoying KY, we are having a good time in NC. Especially liking the weather in the mountains. Driving the mountain roads is a bonus too.

Best
JVV

________________________________
From: Wpta <wpta-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Tim Prell via Wpta <wpta at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2026 9:57 AM
To: WPTA <wpta at autox.team.net>
Subject: [WPTA] Alternator connection

I’ve always had a feeling that running the headlights on the TR6 was a risk to the battery and unfortunately that proved true on a run in Kentucky two weeks ago. The acceleration sputttered when past half throttle (fuel starved), the overdrive stopped working and the battery died in the end. That battery was only 4 years old but out of warranty so I swapped it out in an abundance of caution and finally tested the alternator.

There was no charge above 12 volts when running, tested at the battery terminals. I finally inspected the alternator terminals and found the hot lead completely corroded and broken at the female connector. Discovered Lowe’s doesn’t carry a spade female connector large enough for the 8-10 ha power lead but Autozone did. A relatively simple fix that I should have inspected long ago!

Hoping there’s nothing more to it but wanted thoughts about the best way to get the alternator tested.

Thanks in advance,
Tim
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