[WPTA] Request for feedback on wet sanding

[Gil Smith]

Hi Tim,

Lots of good advice in the responses.  I'll add a little of my own-  First,
if I were starting this project I'd try to determine the thickness of the
paint in question.  There are tools you can use to test to determine if
sanding is possible without removing too much.  Then I'd consider an
attempt to correct the finish with cutting, buffing, and polishing which
might bring it back to an acceptable level.  If not, move on to the wet
sanding.  Best of luck.

Gil

On Wed, Feb 8, 2023 at 12:35 PM JIM UNDERWOOD via Wpta <wpta at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> You need to know exactly what you are working with.  A typical base/clear
> can be sanded an buffed but you still run a risk depending on how thick the
> clear is. When planning a sand and buff, an extra coat of clear is usually
> applied.  A single stage can also be sanded and buffed if it's a solid
> color (no metallic).   If you sand through coats of a metallic, it will
> look like the rings on a tree.   The comparison to a boat is a whole
> different deal.  They have a gel coat that is polyester resin and is the
> same as the resin used in the glass layup.  It gets sprayed into the mold
> first and is WAY thicker than a conventional paint job.  You may have a
> time finding a shop willing to do this as it would be hard to know what
> they are working with.
>
> On 02/07/2023 6:34 AM Tim Prell via Wpta <wpta at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Can any members provide a referral for an auto body shop or detailer in
> the Cranberry or Pittsburgh area that has good results wet sanding a paint
> job to create a better finish? I was a doubter in the past but saw how it
> brought a 20 year-old ski boat back to new condition and might try it on
> one of my vintage cars.
>
> thanks,
> Tim
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