[Vintage-race] More NJVGP news: clutch advice needed

[Dick Tillinger]

Hi Jim,

Are you sure that you have enough free play at the slave cylinder? If you
don't have any or have enough, as things get hot the rod will actually
partially disengage the clutch and it will slip. An hydraulically actuated
clutch is actually one of the few mechanisms in the world that gets tighter
as the it (the clutch) wears, and the adjuster needs to be backed off from
time to time.

Regards,
Dick Tillinger
2-Liter Datsun Roadster


-----Original Message-----
From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of J. F. Juhas
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 10:53 PM
To: MGVR at yahoogroups.com; vintage-race at autox.team.net; 'mgs at autox.team.net';
MGVR at yahoogroups.com; vintage-race at autox.team.net; 'mgs at autox.team.net'
Subject: [Vintage-race] More NJVGP news: clutch advice needed

When Roger's engine grenaded at New Jersey, I drove past him but just 
barely.  My MGA is struggling with a slipping clutch, and it made my 
last few sessions challenging.  This is a kevlar solid (no springs) 
clutch with a competition-grade pressure plate.  I think oil past the 
rear scroll seal has contaminated it, even though conventional wisdom 
says that oil from there should get flung away from the clutch cover.  
Has anyone dealt with this?  I was able to salvage some sessions by 
spraying brake cleaner up the drain hole with the clutch out and 
spinning on the starter.  That and cooling off would run okay for about 
half a race session.  Engine is a slightly modified 1622 and 4.30:1 
rear.  My next plan is to go to a ceramic clutch material (have a source 
in NJ) and a PCV system to help keep the oil in the engine, although the 
oil consumption does not seem remarkable.  Suggestions welcome.

Jim Juhas
MGA 311