From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jan 5 18:17:00 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 05 Jan 2010 18:17:00 -0700 Subject: [Vintage-race] A bit before my time Message-ID: <4B43E48C.70808@bradakis.com> So for reasons I won't go into at the moment, but you'll likely hear about them soon, I'm cleaning up a bunch of stuff in storage and the shop. One dusty old box is filled with vintage spark plugs, Blue Crown brand. I found an interesting slip of paper packed in one of the boxes. On many occasions I feel old, but I think this predates me: http://bradakis.com/Images/war_order.jpg mjb. From sevenamerica at yahoo.com Wed Jan 6 09:45:11 2010 From: sevenamerica at yahoo.com (John Donohoe) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 08:45:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] (no subject) Message-ID: <494865.31205.qm@web110714.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Wow, awful quiet of late... nothing too major on SimpleSevens, but do take a look at Ross Robbins' proposal to drive cross country in an old Lotus, finishing at LOG in Gettysburg -- he's talking about taking either his Elan or his Seven... (link on home page of SimpleSevens: www.simplesevens.org) Of course we need to talk him into joining our LOG Lotus Seven Caravan! So go check his page, then email him and tell him what a wimp he is if he takes his cozy comfy Elan over the Seven! Oh, and there will soon be a batch of T10 axle bits, including a complete T10 Detroit Locker diff (4.11 ratio) in the for sale section :-) check later today or tomorrow! If you just can't wait, email me directly and I'll hook you up! Cheers,John DonohoeSimpleSevens From sevenamerica at yahoo.com Wed Jan 6 09:45:24 2010 From: sevenamerica at yahoo.com (John Donohoe) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 08:45:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] Happy New Year from SimpleSevens! Message-ID: <481507.43440.qm@web110704.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Wow, awful quiet of late... nothing too major on SimpleSevens, but do take a look at Ross Robbins' proposal to drive cross country in an old Lotus, finishing at LOG in Gettysburg -- he's talking about taking either his Elan or his Seven... (link on home page of SimpleSevens: www.simplesevens.org) Of course we need to talk him into joining our LOG Lotus Seven Caravan! So go check his page, then email him and tell him what a wimp he is if he takes his cozy comfy Elan over the Seven! Oh, and there will soon be a batch of T10 axle bits, including a complete T10 Detroit Locker diff (4.11 ratio) in the for sale section :-) check later today or tomorrow! If you just can't wait, email me directly and I'll hook you up! Cheers,John DonohoeSimpleSevens From sevenamerica at yahoo.com Thu Jan 7 08:07:03 2010 From: sevenamerica at yahoo.com (John Donohoe) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 07:07:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] Standard Ten Axle bits, etc Message-ID: <858887.5254.qm@web110707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Okay, let the feeding frenzy begin! If I had a pocket full of money you never would have seen any of this stuff, but I don't so hopefully a lucky Seven racer or restorer out there can use some of these goodies! Oh, and check back soon as another S1 Vintage Racer (yes, with questionable chassis number) and a reasonable S2 Project car will be listed soon. www.simplesevens.org Cheers,John DonohoeSimpleSevens.org From sevenamerica at yahoo.com Thu Jan 7 09:06:28 2010 From: sevenamerica at yahoo.com (John Donohoe) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 08:06:28 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) Message-ID: <502955.82994.qm@web110711.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> For years I've struggled with a vibration in the Seven that seems to come and go at various speeds, and is the same regardless of wheels (I've run 2 types of steel and one set of cast aluminum wheels all resulting in the same vibration). I balanced the driveshaft, and checked the u-joints, all good. Today I stumbled across this instructional booklet on drivetrain alignment: http://www.iedls.com/IEDL_PTS_LGL_091008_Secure.pdf and now I wonder about checking the alignment between my engine and differential pinion shaft. When I got the Seven, the the BMC smoothcase gearbox was attached to a Sprite mount, which was bolted straight to the aluminum floor of the transmission tunnel with a single large bolt! This also resulted in the bellhousing clunking against the lower, curved firewall frame tube over every bump, and yes, the vibration was horrible on the 6 inch wide, custom Lotus steel wheels that were on the car when I bought it. One of my first 'modifications back to original' was to make a crude aluminum bracket to raise the gearbox and spread the load on the tunnel floor. With hindsight, it seems the vibration is less now, but till present. Did I partly fix the problem by slightly changing the relative angles of engine and pinion shaft? Has anyone fussed with this variable? One other detail is that there is a pronounced angle of the engine/transmission itself--the engine is not parallel to the centerline of the car... could this be another cause? Input appreciated as I prepare to pull the engine and will have the opportunity to make adjustments! Cheers, John Donohoe SimpleSevens From royale617 at comcast.net Thu Jan 7 09:57:46 2010 From: royale617 at comcast.net (DRR) Date: Thu, 07 Jan 2010 09:57:46 -0700 Subject: [Vintage-race] Vermont Message-ID: <4B46128A.6080407@comcast.net> Are there any members of the group out there in Vermont? Specifically western Vermont in the area from Rutland south to Manchester. I need someone to look at a car for me. I will pay your traveling expenses plus a little. You do not have to be an expert or even close. I just want an general impression of its condition. If interested, please contact me directly off list. Thanks. ~ Dick Rothman (Lola T-210; Turner 1500) Denver, Colorado From bighealey at charter.net Thu Jan 7 10:19:48 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 09:19:48 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) In-Reply-To: <502955.82994.qm@web110711.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John, Maybe pretty simple but have you balanced your driveshaft? Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Donohoe Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 8:06 AM To: lotus at se7ens.net; vintage-race at autox.team.net Subject: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) For years I've struggled with a vibration in the Seven that seems to come and go at various speeds, and is the same regardless of wheels (I've run 2 types of steel and one set of cast aluminum wheels all resulting in the same vibration). I balanced the driveshaft, and checked the u-joints, all good. Today I stumbled across this instructional booklet on drivetrain alignment: http://www.iedls.com/IEDL_PTS_LGL_091008_Secure.pdf and now I wonder about checking the alignment between my engine and differential pinion shaft. When I got the Seven, the the BMC smoothcase gearbox was attached to a Sprite mount, which was bolted straight to the aluminum floor of the transmission tunnel with a single large bolt! This also resulted in the bellhousing clunking against the lower, curved firewall frame tube over every bump, and yes, the vibration was horrible on the 6 inch wide, custom Lotus steel wheels that were on the car when I bought it. One of my first 'modifications back to original' was to make a crude aluminum bracket to raise the gearbox and spread the load on the tunnel floor. With hindsight, it seems the vibration is less now, but till present. Did I partly fix the problem by slightly changing the relative angles of engine and pinion shaft? Has anyone fussed with this variable? One other detail is that there is a pronounced angle of the engine/transmission itself--the engine is not parallel to the centerline of the car... could this be another cause? Input appreciated as I prepare to pull the engine and will have the opportunity to make adjustments! Cheers, John Donohoe SimpleSevens You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net Vintage-race at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From britbits at netzero.com Thu Jan 7 11:08:52 2010 From: britbits at netzero.com (Jim) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 12:08:52 -0600 Subject: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) In-Reply-To: <502955.82994.qm@web110711.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John, Basic diagnostics? Is the vibration speed dependent or rpm dependent? Does it get better or worse going throttle on/throttle off? Did you try to push in the clutch or put it in neutral while the vibe is happening? And what's the condition of the rest of the suspension? Cheers, Jim Dallas '76 DM Spitfire autocrosser '61 Morris Mini vintage racer -----Original Message----- From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Donohoe Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 10:06 AM To: lotus at se7ens.net; vintage-race at autox.team.net Subject: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) For years I've struggled with a vibration in the Seven that seems to come and go at various speeds, and is the same regardless of wheels (I've run 2 types of steel and one set of cast aluminum wheels all resulting in the same vibration). I balanced the driveshaft, and checked the u-joints, all good. Today I stumbled across this instructional booklet on drivetrain alignment: http://www.iedls.com/IEDL_PTS_LGL_091008_Secure.pdf and now I wonder about checking the alignment between my engine and differential pinion shaft. When I got the Seven, the the BMC smoothcase gearbox was attached to a Sprite mount, which was bolted straight to the aluminum floor of the transmission tunnel with a single large bolt! This also resulted in the bellhousing clunking against the lower, curved firewall frame tube over every bump, and yes, the vibration was horrible on the 6 inch wide, custom Lotus steel wheels that were on the car when I bought it. One of my first 'modifications back to original' was to make a crude aluminum bracket to raise the gearbox and spread the load on the tunnel floor. With hindsight, it seems the vibration is less now, but till present. Did I partly fix the problem by slightly changing the relative angles of engine and pinion shaft? Has anyone fussed with this variable? One other detail is that there is a pronounced angle of the engine/transmission itself--the engine is not parallel to the centerline of the car... could this be another cause? Input appreciated as I prepare to pull the engine and will have the opportunity to make adjustments! Cheers, John Donohoe SimpleSevens You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net Vintage-race at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race ____________________________________________________________ Home Improvement Projects Improve your home. Click for products, services, and project ideas. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/c?cp=G7qBCeOmZoi7wqUf1NX2TAAAJ1F1dVHzSW6wTdauFRUTZGKZAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAShAAAAAA= From bighealey at charter.net Thu Jan 7 11:28:03 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 10:28:03 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <9EED5C95DDDD4A5F800CCC6ACB35BFA0@TRACY> My bad. I should read before I comment. I see you did balance the driveshaft. Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tracy Drummond Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 9:20 AM To: 'John Donohoe'; lotus at se7ens.net; vintage-race at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) John, Maybe pretty simple but have you balanced your driveshaft? Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Donohoe Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 8:06 AM To: lotus at se7ens.net; vintage-race at autox.team.net Subject: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) For years I've struggled with a vibration in the Seven that seems to come and go at various speeds, and is the same regardless of wheels (I've run 2 types of steel and one set of cast aluminum wheels all resulting in the same vibration). I balanced the driveshaft, and checked the u-joints, all good. Today I stumbled across this instructional booklet on drivetrain alignment: http://www.iedls.com/IEDL_PTS_LGL_091008_Secure.pdf and now I wonder about checking the alignment between my engine and differential pinion shaft. When I got the Seven, the the BMC smoothcase gearbox was attached to a Sprite mount, which was bolted straight to the aluminum floor of the transmission tunnel with a single large bolt! This also resulted in the bellhousing clunking against the lower, curved firewall frame tube over every bump, and yes, the vibration was horrible on the 6 inch wide, custom Lotus steel wheels that were on the car when I bought it. One of my first 'modifications back to original' was to make a crude aluminum bracket to raise the gearbox and spread the load on the tunnel floor. With hindsight, it seems the vibration is less now, but till present. Did I partly fix the problem by slightly changing the relative angles of engine and pinion shaft? Has anyone fussed with this variable? One other detail is that there is a pronounced angle of the engine/transmission itself--the engine is not parallel to the centerline of the car... could this be another cause? Input appreciated as I prepare to pull the engine and will have the opportunity to make adjustments! Cheers, John Donohoe SimpleSevens You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net Vintage-race at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net Vintage-race at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From sevenamerica at yahoo.com Thu Jan 7 12:17:26 2010 From: sevenamerica at yahoo.com (John Donohoe) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 11:17:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <309978.62962.qm@web110706.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hmm, from what I recall (have just kind of gotten used to it over the years) clutch in has no effect... that isolates engine, but the driveshaft is still spinning though... I'm wodnering if there is actually something to the 'built-in offset to minimize harmonic vibration' concept? jd --- On Thu, 1/7/10, Jim wrote: From: Jim Subject: RE: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) To: "'John Donohoe'" , lotus at se7ens.net, vintage-race at autox.team.net Date: Thursday, January 7, 2010, 1:08 PM John, Basic diagnostics? Is the vibration speed dependent or rpm dependent? Does it get better or worse going throttle on/throttle off? Did you try to push in the clutch or put it in neutral while the vibe is happening? And what's the condition of the rest of the suspension? Cheers, Jim Dallas '76 DM Spitfire autocrosser '61 Morris Mini vintage racer -----Original Message----- From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Donohoe Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 10:06 AM To: lotus at se7ens.net; vintage-race at autox.team.net Subject: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) For years I've struggled with a vibration in the Seven that seems to come and go at various speeds, and is the same regardless of wheels (I've run 2 types of steel and one set of cast aluminum wheels all resulting in the same vibration). I balanced the driveshaft, and checked the u-joints, all good. Today I stumbled across this instructional booklet on drivetrain alignment: http://www.iedls.com/IEDL_PTS_LGL_091008_Secure.pdf and now I wonder about checking the alignment between my engine and differential pinion shaft. When I got the Seven, the the BMC smoothcase gearbox was attached to a Sprite mount, which was bolted straight to the aluminum floor of the transmission tunnel with a single large bolt! This also resulted in the bellhousing clunking against the lower, curved firewall frame tube over every bump, and yes, the vibration was horrible on the 6 inch wide, custom Lotus steel wheels that were on the car when I bought it. One of my first 'modifications back to original' was to make a crude aluminum bracket to raise the gearbox and spread the load on the tunnel floor. With hindsight, it seems the vibration is less now, but till present. Did I partly fix the problem by slightly changing the relative angles of engine and pinion shaft? Has anyone fussed with this variable? One other detail is that there is a pronounced angle of the engine/transmission itself--the engine is not parallel to the centerline of the car... could this be another cause? Input appreciated as I prepare to pull the engine and will have the opportunity to make adjustments! Cheers, John Donohoe SimpleSevens You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net Vintage-race at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race ____________________________________________________________ Home Improvement Projects Improve your home. Click for products, services, and project ideas. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/c?cp=G7qBCeOmZoi7wqUf1NX2TAAAJ1F1 dVHzSW6wTdauFRUTZGKZAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAShAAAAAA= From craig245 at cox.net Thu Jan 7 12:41:59 2010 From: craig245 at cox.net (Craig Wright) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 11:41:59 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) References: <502955.82994.qm@web110711.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Here is a link to how to set the angle. In addition the two ujoints at each end have to be in phase, and not rotated at all relative to each other. The line of the tailshaft and the pinon shaft should be paralell when under load. So set the paralell to start and then rotate the pinion shaft down 1-2 degrees. You see lifted trucks all the time with the rear axel pointe up to the tailshaft. That driveline will vibrate like mad and break ujoints regularly. http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html Craig Wright ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Donohoe" To: ; Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 8:06 AM Subject: [Vintage-race] Driveline angles and vibration? (General, but in my Lotus Seven) > For years I've struggled with a vibration in the Seven that seems to come > and > go at various speeds, and is the same regardless of wheels (I've run 2 > types > of steel and one set of cast aluminum wheels all resulting in the same > vibration). I balanced the driveshaft, and checked the u-joints, all good. > Today I stumbled across this instructional booklet on drivetrain > alignment: http://www.iedls.com/IEDL_PTS_LGL_091008_Secure.pdf and now I > wonder about checking the alignment between my engine and differential > pinion > shaft. When I got the Seven, the the BMC smoothcase gearbox was attached > to a > Sprite mount, which was bolted straight to the aluminum floor of the > transmission tunnel with a single large bolt! This also resulted in the > bellhousing clunking against the lower, curved firewall frame tube over > every > bump, and yes, the vibration was horrible on the 6 inch wide, custom Lotus > steel wheels that were on the car when I bought it. One of my first > 'modifications back to original' was to make a crude aluminum bracket to > raise the gearbox and spread the load on the tunnel floor. With hindsight, > it > seems the vibration is less now, but till present. Did I partly fix the > problem by slightly changing the relative angles of engine and pinion > shaft? > Has anyone fussed with this variable? One other detail is that there is a > pronounced angle of the engine/transmission itself--the engine is not > parallel > to the centerline of the car... could this be another cause? Input > appreciated > as I prepare to pull the engine and will have the opportunity to make > adjustments! Cheers, John Donohoe SimpleSevens > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as craig245 at cox.net > > Vintage-race at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From webmaster at norcal-saac.org Fri Jan 8 10:12:51 2010 From: webmaster at norcal-saac.org (Nor Cal SAAC) Date: Fri, 08 Jan 2010 09:12:51 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] Goodyear Speedway Special tires Message-ID: <4B476793.5070104@norcal-saac.org> I have 6 NOS Goodyear Speedway Special tires, size 25x9.5x15 ... These are now at least 20 years old according to Roger Kraus, since they switched to Radials in the 80s...... they are really dried out even though they have been bagged the last 10 years or so. (They were probably already dried out before then) They were intended to be used on a 427 Cobra replica by a local Shelby club member who passed away a few year ago...... My questions are: What cars would these have been used on originally, and are those cars running in vintage today (I assume)... and would they be useful or valuable to someone who wants "show" tires for their vintage race car?? -- Regards -------------- Walt Boeninger walt at boeninger.net webmaster at norcal-saac.org webmaster at vintagemustang.org http://shelbytransam.com From sevenamerica at yahoo.com Fri Jan 8 14:36:25 2010 From: sevenamerica at yahoo.com (John Donohoe) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 13:36:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? Message-ID: <856799.1317.qm@web110715.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Interested in opinions here, about my treatment of this 'Series 1 Lotus Seven' which sports a new chassis plate showing #821 when I already know the real #821... Before passing judgement, please consider this: The past two owners of this specific car contacted me before trying to sell it, and I told both of them that it was not #821. What did they do? They sold it on as Lotus Seven #821. The most recent buyer contacted me as the previous owners did, and I told him the same thing: I know the real #821, and your car is not it. Further I told him that I had informed both of the previous owners of the fact. Well, the current owner has now decided to sell the car and has asked me to list it. He was comfortable with me including the special notes you see on the page: http://www.simplesevens.org/0821a.htm. I think he deserves a lot of credit for being willing to put an end to the charade that this is the genuine #821. I think also that by me posting the car as I have, I am educating the potential Seven buying public as to a car that is carrying a duplicate number. No, I don't like showing a car with a dodgy number, but I do feel that by showing it the issue becomes public and future buyers are better able to make an informed decision. There, that's off my chest :-) So tell me what you think! I am genuinely interested in your opinions. Cheers,John DonohoeSimpleSevens.org From sevenamerica at yahoo.com Fri Jan 8 14:54:41 2010 From: sevenamerica at yahoo.com (John Donohoe) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 13:54:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] [Lotus] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? In-Reply-To: <8726.3edbc9c2.38790214@aol.com> Message-ID: <612411.67816.qm@web110716.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Yes, THAT's the real question. I suspect that some one would have to make a formal protest, and then the sanctioning group would have to define what is and what is genuine and what is a replica? I theory, you can replace every part on the car, and still call it the same car I suppose... let's see what happens :-) jd --- On Fri, 1/8/10, mills689 at aol.com wrote: From: mills689 at aol.com Subject: Re: [Lotus] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? To: lotus at se7ens.net Date: Friday, January 8, 2010, 4:48 PM In a message dated 1/8/2010 2:36:56 PM Mountain Standard Time, sevenamerica at yahoo.com writes: _http://www.simplesevens.org/0821a.htm_ (http://www.simplesevens.org/0821a.htm) . I think he deserves alot of credit, too. However, why do VSCCA, VRG, SVRA all accept a bootleg "Lotus"? Why don't they require it be called a "special" or replica?? Barry SB1298 ------------------------------------------------ To manage your subscription options visit :- http://mailman.se7ens.net/mailman/listinfo/lotus From rickyocum at earthlink.net Fri Jan 8 17:01:58 2010 From: rickyocum at earthlink.net (rickyocum at earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 19:01:58 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [Vintage-race] [Lotus] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? Message-ID: <5509530.1262995318648.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I think that's the proper way to handle the situation and I offer high praise for the current owner. The question of what constitutes "an original" has been discussed on various boards for several years. The favorite quote I ever read on the subject (and I'm taking liberty with the numbers because I don't remember the exact quote)dealt with the 1957 Chevy "Black Widows.' I once read the comment "Out of the 125 originally produced, primarily for NASCAR racing, only approximately 500 have survived." Rick >Subject: Re: [Vintage-race] [Lotus] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? > >Yes, THAT's the real question. >I suspect that some one would have to make a formal protest, and then the >sanctioning group would have to define what is and what is genuine and what is >a replica? I theory, you can replace every part on the car, and still call it >the same car I suppose... let's see what happens :-) >jd From shiples at comcast.net Fri Jan 8 17:03:05 2010 From: shiples at comcast.net (Steve Shipley) Date: Fri, 08 Jan 2010 16:03:05 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? In-Reply-To: <856799.1317.qm@web110715.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20100108154210.0392e758@mail.comcast.net> At 01:36 PM 1/8/2010 -0800, John Donohoe wrote: >Interested in opinions here, about my treatment of this 'Series 1 Lotus Seven' >which sports a new chassis plate showing #821 when I already know the real >#821... > >Before passing judgement, please consider this: The past two owners of this >specific car contacted me before trying to sell it, and I told both of them >that it was not #821. What did they do? They sold it on as Lotus Seven #821. >The most recent buyer contacted me as the previous owners did, and I told him >the same thing: I know the real #821, and your car is not it. Further I told >him that I had informed both of the previous owners of the fact. Well, the >current owner has now decided to sell the car and has asked me to list it. He >was comfortable with me including the special notes you see on the >page: http://www.simplesevens.org/0821a.htm. >I think he deserves a lot of credit for being willing to put an end to the >charade that this is the genuine #821. I think also that by me posting the car >as I have, I am educating the potential Seven buying public as to a car that >is carrying a duplicate number. No, I don't like showing a car with a dodgy >number, but I do feel that by showing it the issue becomes public and future >buyers are better able to make an informed decision. >There, that's off my chest :-) So tell me what you think! I am genuinely >interested in your opinions. There's a range for originality, from untouched to touched quite a lot. In my opinion, if the owner is honest about what they're up to, there's no foul. If an organization excludes a car because it isn't authentic, that's fine too. I think that acknowledging clones, fakes, and counterfeits as part of the hobby it validates the most original examples. I'd like to think that the fakes can be enjoyed without fear of loss and perhaps enhances the status of the historic, original, correct, etc. Maybe the person who counterfeited #821 wouldn't have felt the need to create a lie if a car that has lost it's identity would be accepted with the true story of the history of the car. From 56887 at msn.com Fri Jan 8 19:23:10 2010 From: 56887 at msn.com (Stewart Smith) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 18:23:10 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? In-Reply-To: <856799.1317.qm@web110715.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <856799.1317.qm@web110715.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hello John et. al. I was called upon as an expert witness regarding a similar case of two cars one number. The fact of the case revolved around two cars with the same chassis number. I was asked to find value between the two. I believe the case was settled for $10K to be paid by the person who created the other car....the restored car was done by a third party who recreated a car from new and kept the old chassis while his client was given a "restored" car which was entirely new. The old chassis kept the chassis number even though it was not supposed to exist. Stewart -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Donohoe" Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 1:36 PM To: ; Subject: [Vintage-race] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? > Interested in opinions here, about my treatment of this 'Series 1 Lotus > Seven' > which sports a new chassis plate showing #821 when I already know the real > #821... > > Before passing judgement, please consider this: The past two owners of > this > specific car contacted me before trying to sell it, and I told both of > them > that it was not #821. What did they do? They sold it on as Lotus Seven > #821. > The most recent buyer contacted me as the previous owners did, and I told > him > the same thing: I know the real #821, and your car is not it. Further I > told > him that I had informed both of the previous owners of the fact. Well, the > current owner has now decided to sell the car and has asked me to list it. > He > was comfortable with me including the special notes you see on the > page: http://www.simplesevens.org/0821a.htm. > I think he deserves a lot of credit for being willing to put an end to the > charade that this is the genuine #821. I think also that by me posting the > car > as I have, I am educating the potential Seven buying public as to a car > that > is carrying a duplicate number. No, I don't like showing a car with a > dodgy > number, but I do feel that by showing it the issue becomes public and > future > buyers are better able to make an informed decision. > There, that's off my chest :-) So tell me what you think! I am genuinely > interested in your opinions. > Cheers,John DonohoeSimpleSevens.org > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as 56887 at msn.com > > Vintage-race at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From sevenamerica at yahoo.com Fri Jan 8 20:43:56 2010 From: sevenamerica at yahoo.com (John Donohoe) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 19:43:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <800881.48606.qm@web110705.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> If it had been me I'd want my original chassis back!!! Thanks for sharing! jd --- On Fri, 1/8/10, Stewart Smith <56887 at msn.com> wrote: From: Stewart Smith <56887 at msn.com> Subject: Re: [Vintage-race] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? To: "John Donohoe" , lotus at se7ens.net, vintage-race at autox.team.net Date: Friday, January 8, 2010, 9:23 PM Hello John et. al. I was called upon as an expert witness regarding a similar case of two cars one number. The fact of the case revolved around two cars with the same chassis number. I was asked to find value between the two. I believe the case was settled for $10K to be paid by the person who created the other car....the restored car was done by a third party who recreated a car from new and kept the old chassis while his client was given a "restored" car which was entirely new. The old chassis kept the chassis number even though it was not supposed to exist. Stewart -------------------------------------------------- From: "John Donohoe" Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 1:36 PM To: ; Subject: [Vintage-race] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? > Interested in opinions here, about my treatment of this 'Series 1 Lotus Seven' > which sports a new chassis plate showing #821 when I already know the real > #821... > > Before passing judgement, please consider this: The past two owners of this > specific car contacted me before trying to sell it, and I told both of them > that it was not #821. What did they do? They sold it on as Lotus Seven #821. > The most recent buyer contacted me as the previous owners did, and I told him > the same thing: I know the real #821, and your car is not it. Further I told > him that I had informed both of the previous owners of the fact. Well, the > current owner has now decided to sell the car and has asked me to list it. He > was comfortable with me including the special notes you see on the > page: http://www.simplesevens.org/0821a.htm. > I think he deserves a lot of credit for being willing to put an end to the > charade that this is the genuine #821. I think also that by me posting the car > as I have, I am educating the potential Seven buying public as to a car that > is carrying a duplicate number. No, I don't like showing a car with a dodgy > number, but I do feel that by showing it the issue becomes public and future > buyers are better able to make an informed decision. > There, that's off my chest :-) So tell me what you think! I am genuinely > interested in your opinions. > Cheers,John DonohoeSimpleSevens.org > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as 56887 at msn.com > > Vintage-race at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From sevenamerica at yahoo.com Fri Jan 8 20:48:06 2010 From: sevenamerica at yahoo.com (John Donohoe) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 19:48:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? In-Reply-To: <00b101ca90ce$aaba01a0$6401a8c0@normoffice> Message-ID: <618735.98767.qm@web110714.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Yep. You got it. Anyone who's been around the block with Lotus Sevens or Turners knows what you're talking about. Cheers,jd --- On Fri, 1/8/10, AlfaOwner wrote: From: AlfaOwner Subject: RE: [Vintage-race] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? To: "'John Donohoe'" Date: Friday, January 8, 2010, 8:54 PM John: Was this car sold by a Connecticut dealer at some point in time? If it was that could explain the duplicate serial number. There is a dealer there through whose hands have come a series of Lotus 7s & Turners with duplicate serial numbers. "1 of 2" -----Original Message----- From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Donohoe Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 4:36 PM To: lotus at se7ens.net; vintage-race at autox.team.net Subject: [Vintage-race] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? Interested in opinions here, about my treatment of this 'Series 1 Lotus Seven' which sports a new chassis plate showing #821 when I already know the real #821... Before passing judgement, please consider this: The past two owners of this specific car contacted me before trying to sell it, and I told both of them that it was not #821. What did they do? They sold it on as Lotus Seven #821. The most recent buyer contacted me as the previous owners did, and I told him the same thing: I know the real #821, and your car is not it. Further I told him that I had informed both of the previous owners of the fact. Well, the current owner has now decided to sell the car and has asked me to list it. He was comfortable with me including the special notes you see on the page: http://www.simplesevens.org/0821a.htm. I think he deserves a lot of credit for being willing to put an end to the charade that this is the genuine #821. I think also that by me posting the car as I have, I am educating the potential Seven buying public as to a car that is carrying a duplicate number. No, I don't like showing a car with a dodgy number, but I do feel that by showing it the issue becomes public and future buyers are better able to make an informed decision. There, that's off my chest :-) So tell me what you think! I am genuinely interested in your opinions. Cheers,John DonohoeSimpleSevens.org Vintage-race at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From sevenamerica at yahoo.com Fri Jan 8 20:53:56 2010 From: sevenamerica at yahoo.com (John Donohoe) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 19:53:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? In-Reply-To: <5.2.1.1.0.20100108154210.0392e758@mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <609008.1863.qm@web110714.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I think we're basically in agreement there. Honesty is what counts. Thanks,John D. --- On Fri, 1/8/10, Steve Shipley wrote: From: Steve Shipley Subject: Re: [Vintage-race] An S1 with Duplicate Number... a can of worms? To: "John Donohoe" , lotus at se7ens.net, vintage-race at autox.team.net Date: Friday, January 8, 2010, 7:03 PM At 01:36 PM 1/8/2010 -0800, John Donohoe wrote: Interested in opinions here, about my treatment of this 'Series 1 Lotus Seven' which sports a new chassis plate showing #821 when I already know the real #821... Before passing judgement, please consider this: The past two owners of this specific car contacted me before trying to sell it, and I told both of them that it was not #821. What did they do? They sold it on as Lotus Seven #821. The most recent buyer contacted me as the previous owners did, and I told him the same thing: I know the real #821, and your car is not it. Further I told him that I had informed both of the previous owners of the fact. Well, the current owner has now decided to sell the car and has asked me to list it. He was comfortable with me including the special notes you see on the page: http://www.simplesevens.org/0821a.htm. I think he deserves a lot of credit for being willing to put an end to the charade that this is the genuine #821. I think also that by me posting the car as I have, I am educating the potential Seven buying public as to a car that is carrying a duplicate number. No, I don't like showing a car with a dodgy number, but I do feel that by showing it the issue becomes public and future buyers are better able to make an informed decision. There, that's off my chest :-) So tell me what you think! I am genuinely interested in your opinions. There's a range for originality, from untouched to touched quite a lot. In my opinion, if the owner is honest about what they're up to, there's no foul. If an organization excludes a car because it isn't authentic, that's fine too. I think that acknowledging clones, fakes, and counterfeits as part of the hobby it validates the most original examples. I'd like to think that the fakes can be enjoyed without fear of loss and perhaps enhances the status of the historic, original, correct, etc. Maybe the person who counterfeited #821 wouldn't have felt the need to create a lie if a car that has lost it's identity would be accepted with the true story of the history of the car. From bighealey at charter.net Sat Jan 9 04:36:38 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 03:36:38 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] broken MGA axle Message-ID: Wise ones, What are the tips and tricks to reduce the likelihood of breaking a MGA axle? Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond From note4don at live.com Sat Jan 9 10:23:46 2010 From: note4don at live.com (Don) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 09:23:46 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] broken MGA axle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: A limited slip diff and vintage tires -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tracy Drummond" Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 3:36 AM To: Subject: [Vintage-race] broken MGA axle > Wise ones, > > > > What are the tips and tricks to reduce the likelihood of breaking a MGA > axle? > > > > Warm Regards, > > > > Tracy Drummond > > > > PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 > cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as note4don at live.com > > Vintage-race at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From old_cat at earthlink.net Sat Jan 9 20:32:30 2010 From: old_cat at earthlink.net (Sue Salsburg) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 22:32:30 -0500 Subject: [Vintage-race] MGA broken axles Message-ID: <73BB5BE08D3B46809B86148F756B6961@d4550> Better rear axle bearings(easy cross at a bearing supply house), fine spline rather than coarse, better rear location( panhard,watts link), correct torque on hub nut & the final fix is a support to stiffen the housing itself. We run a welded rear & 6" rims with slicks. Have FINALLY stopped breaking axles from a standing start in hillclimbs. Where are you breaking them & when? Sue From bighealey at charter.net Sun Jan 10 06:09:44 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 05:09:44 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] MGA broken axles In-Reply-To: <73BB5BE08D3B46809B86148F756B6961@d4550> Message-ID: Sue, It broke on the outer flange. I plan to magna-flux two replacements (25 spline) While I have it apart I will check for any play at the bearings and carrier. Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sue Salsburg Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 7:33 PM To: vintage-race at autox.team.net Subject: [Vintage-race] MGA broken axles Better rear axle bearings(easy cross at a bearing supply house), fine spline rather than coarse, better rear location( panhard,watts link), correct torque on hub nut & the final fix is a support to stiffen the housing itself. We run a welded rear & 6" rims with slicks. Have FINALLY stopped breaking axles from a standing start in hillclimbs. Where are you breaking them & when? Sue You are subscribed as bighealey at charter.net Vintage-race at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From old_cat at earthlink.net Sun Jan 10 07:09:57 2010 From: old_cat at earthlink.net (Sue Salsburg) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 09:09:57 -0500 Subject: [Vintage-race] MGA broken axles References: Message-ID: Breaking at the outer flange is unusual. The normal spot is inside the carrier, leaving a 2inch stub to beat out. Before we got serious about upgrades, we could change the pumpkin in the pits in 45 minutes/4 beers. Axle wrap-up on the old Sprites was so bad that racers routinely swapped them side-to-side after each race to "untwist". Now they have after-market, double bearing hubs. I forgot one other trick - the wire wheel axle were "supposed to be" stronger, plus their track was a bit wider. We've always used wire wheel axles with the splines cut off. When the street car guys wear off the outer splines & knockoff threads, we can get them for free or close. Good luck, Sue From franks97 at verizon.net Sun Jan 10 21:38:40 2010 From: franks97 at verizon.net (Franks) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 20:38:40 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] Vintage Racing in the NW with SCCA and another program is uploaded Message-ID: Hello everyone, Schedules are staring to firm up and it looks like a good year for vintage racing opportunities in the NW. Of course Oregon Region SCCA will have a vintage grid with all of their regional events: March 5-7 -- Driver School & Single Regional, with Chicane April 17-18 -- Single Regional, with Chicane May 7-9 -- Regional/National Combo, no Chicane June 11-12-13 -- Rose Cup Double Regional, with Chicane August 7-8 -- Single Regional, no Chicane September 11-12 -- Single Regional, no Chicane October 8-10 -- Double Regional, with Chicane October 23-24 -- Oregon Raceway Park, Grass Valley OR, co-sanctioned with NW Region Thanks to the combined efforts of NW Region, San Francisco Region and Oregon Region the NORPAC vintage series continues: May 29-31 Dbl. National with Vintage Pacific Raceway, Kent NWR June 11-13 Rose Cup Dbl. Regional with Vintage PIR, Portland OR Reg Aug 28 & 29 Dbl. Regional with Vintage Bermerton NWR Sept 10-12 Vintage Weekend Thunderhill Park SFR Oct 23 & 24 Regional with Vintage Oregon Raceway Park Grass Valley OR Reg 5 weekends 5 different tracks Contact these folks for more information: Bill Godwin, San Francisco Region: ponyperf at comcast.net Dan Mullin, Oregon Region: danm356 at yahoo.com Lee Mitchell, Reno Region: lee.mitchell at attglobal.net Tom Masterson, Northwest Region: kd7cyu at yahoo.com The 1980 Rose Cup program has been scanned and uploaded to the Region web site: All schedules are subject to change. Have a great 2010! -- David Franks franks97 at verizon.net 67 AH Sprite #82 Blue From mchutto at cox.net Tue Jan 12 17:19:10 2010 From: mchutto at cox.net (Marty Hutto) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 19:19:10 -0500 Subject: [Vintage-race] Isaac Restraint System for sale Message-ID: <007801ca93e6$0770baf0$0401a8c0@MHuttoLaptop> Anybody interested in an unused, still in the case, Isaac head and neck restraint system please contact me at mcutto at cox.net. I sold the car and bought an airplane before I got the chance to use it. I honestly don't remember what I paid for it. It was somewhere north of $600, so I'll take $600 for it. Marty Hutto From mchutto at cox.net Tue Jan 12 17:29:53 2010 From: mchutto at cox.net (Marty Hutto) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 19:29:53 -0500 Subject: [Vintage-race] Isaac Restraint System for sale In-Reply-To: <007801ca93e6$0770baf0$0401a8c0@MHuttoLaptop> References: <007801ca93e6$0770baf0$0401a8c0@MHuttoLaptop> Message-ID: <008001ca93e7$86ca6520$0401a8c0@MHuttoLaptop> OOPS!! Should be mchutto at cox.net -----Original Message----- From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Marty Hutto Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 7:19 PM To: 'vintage list' Subject: [Vintage-race] Isaac Restraint System for sale Anybody interested in an unused, still in the case, Isaac head and neck restraint system please contact me at mcutto at cox.net. I sold the car and bought an airplane before I got the chance to use it. I honestly don't remember what I paid for it. It was somewhere north of $600, so I'll take $600 for it. Marty Hutto You are subscribed as mchutto at cox.net Vintage-race at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From bighealey at charter.net Wed Jan 13 09:38:53 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:38:53 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator Message-ID: <8AE5F87CCDD64BE08FBD96B9D69CF765@TRACY> Which brand of cut off switch is best? I need to also kill the alternator. I only saw this one that matches my application so far. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464 Also I am considering adding a quick fitting for battery charging but cannot find the grey two terminal set up. Thanks guys Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond From RRyan at frk.com Wed Jan 13 10:23:33 2010 From: RRyan at frk.com (Ryan, Richard) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 09:23:33 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator References: <8AE5F87CCDD64BE08FBD96B9D69CF765@TRACY> Message-ID: <2836149FA7BFB44A8528E41CC72137DD04776073@smosvr0663.noam.corp.frk.com> Just to chime in, we had 2 master kill switch failures in 2009, one in an FV and one in a Miata. In both cases the driver drove the car in after a session and parked it. Then the car would not start for the next session. The next one I buy will be the best one I can get. What causes these switches to fail? Dick Ryan 650-312-4022 (24022) Director of Global Insurance Management Franklin Templeton Investments One Franklin Parkway 960/4 San Mateo CA 94403-1906 Fax 650-312-5830 (25830) -----Original Message----- From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tracy Drummond Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 8:39 AM To: vintage-race at autox.team.net Subject: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator Which brand of cut off switch is best? I need to also kill the alternator. I only saw this one that matches my application so far. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464 Also I am considering adding a quick fitting for battery charging but cannot find the grey two terminal set up. Thanks guys Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond Notice: All email and instant messages (including attachments) sent to or from Franklin Templeton Investments (FTI) personnel may be retained, monitored and/or reviewed by FTI and its agents, or authorized law enforcement personnel, without further notice or consent. From mrjones2 at ix.netcom.com Wed Jan 13 10:42:56 2010 From: mrjones2 at ix.netcom.com (Kendall Jones) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 12:42:56 -0500 Subject: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator In-Reply-To: <8AE5F87CCDD64BE08FBD96B9D69CF765@TRACY> References: <8AE5F87CCDD64BE08FBD96B9D69CF765@TRACY> Message-ID: You need an anderson connector 50A rating. I have a couple extra if you can find any (they mate into each other). Kendall -----Original Message----- From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tracy Drummond Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 11:39 AM To: vintage-race at autox.team.net Subject: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator Which brand of cut off switch is best? I need to also kill the alternator. I only saw this one that matches my application so far. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464 Also I am considering adding a quick fitting for battery charging but cannot find the grey two terminal set up. Thanks guys Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond You are subscribed as mrjones2 at ix.netcom.com Vintage-race at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From snettleship at nc.rr.com Wed Jan 13 10:54:16 2010 From: snettleship at nc.rr.com (snettleship at nc.rr.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 17:54:16 +0000 Subject: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator In-Reply-To: <8AE5F87CCDD64BE08FBD96B9D69CF765@TRACY> Message-ID: <20100113175417.9KFYI.68602.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Take a look here, it has the instructions for wiring. http://www.longacreracing.com/instructions/inst.asp?instid=84 Scott ---- Tracy Drummond wrote: > Which brand of cut off switch is best? I need to also kill the alternator. > I only saw this one that matches my application so far. > http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464 > > > > Also I am considering adding a quick fitting for battery charging but cannot > find the grey two terminal set up. > > > > Thanks guys > > > > Warm Regards, > > > > Tracy Drummond > > > > PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 > cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as snettleship at nc.rr.com > > Vintage-race at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From james.f.juhas at snet.net Wed Jan 13 13:23:51 2010 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (James F Juhas) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 15:23:51 -0500 Subject: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator In-Reply-To: <8AE5F87CCDD64BE08FBD96B9D69CF765@TRACY> References: <8AE5F87CCDD64BE08FBD96B9D69CF765@TRACY> Message-ID: <4B4E2BD7.1040006@snet.net> That's the one I use and it has been reliable. I do stock a spare in my parts box, though. Tracy Drummond wrote: > Which brand of cut off switch is best? I need to also kill the alternator. > I only saw this one that matches my application so far. > http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464 > > > > Also I am considering adding a quick fitting for battery charging but cannot > find the grey two terminal set up. > > > > Thanks guys > > > > Warm Regards, > > > > Tracy Drummond > > > > PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 > cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as james.f.juhas at snet.net > > Vintage-race at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race > > -- [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of james_f_juhas.vcf] From fastvee at yahoo.com Wed Jan 13 14:17:40 2010 From: fastvee at yahoo.com (fastvee) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 13:17:40 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator In-Reply-To: <2836149FA7BFB44A8528E41CC72137DD04776073@smosvr0663.noam.corp.frk.com> Message-ID: <331584.56264.qm@web34401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I believe my master switch failure was due to oxidation of the terminals. The plastic cut off switches are not sealed very well for racing in the rain. I was able to get it working in the paddock with contact cleaner and repeated actuation, ignored advise to bypass it, and it then failed during the race and cost me a win. Later replaced it with a sealed metal switch like these from Longacre Racing; http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/catlist.asp?catid=14 John Caffrey Fogelsville, PA --- On Wed, 1/13/10, Ryan, Richard wrote: What causes these switches to fail? From mrjones2 at ix.netcom.com Wed Jan 13 15:32:16 2010 From: mrjones2 at ix.netcom.com (Kendall Jones) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 17:32:16 -0500 Subject: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator In-Reply-To: <2836149FA7BFB44A8528E41CC72137DD04776073@smosvr0663.noam.corp.frk.com> References: <8AE5F87CCDD64BE08FBD96B9D69CF765@TRACY> <2836149FA7BFB44A8528E41CC72137DD04776073@smosvr0663.noam.corp.frk.com> Message-ID: Dry circuit resistance (or carbon buildup) causes them to fail. You should never just off a running car (or otherwise electrically loaded circuit) with these switches. That causes an internal arc which over time builds up resistance. Looking at Ohms law (V=IR); low voltage / high current application are very susceptible to small changes in resistance (think corroded battery terminals) I too used to buy the cheap flag style circuit breakers until it cost me a national race win. Either get the sealed style or the FIA style Solid State relay setup. Kendall -----Original Message----- From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ryan, Richard Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 12:24 PM To: Tracy Drummond; vintage-race at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator Just to chime in, we had 2 master kill switch failures in 2009, one in an FV and one in a Miata. In both cases the driver drove the car in after a session and parked it. Then the car would not start for the next session. The next one I buy will be the best one I can get. What causes these switches to fail? Dick Ryan 650-312-4022 (24022) Director of Global Insurance Management Franklin Templeton Investments One Franklin Parkway 960/4 San Mateo CA 94403-1906 Fax 650-312-5830 (25830) -----Original Message----- From: vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:vintage-race-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tracy Drummond Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 8:39 AM To: vintage-race at autox.team.net Subject: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator Which brand of cut off switch is best? I need to also kill the alternator. I only saw this one that matches my application so far. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464 Also I am considering adding a quick fitting for battery charging but cannot find the grey two terminal set up. Thanks guys Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond Notice: All email and instant messages (including attachments) sent to or from Franklin Templeton Investments (FTI) personnel may be retained, monitored and/or reviewed by FTI and its agents, or authorized law enforcement personnel, without further notice or consent. You are subscribed as mrjones2 at ix.netcom.com Vintage-race at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From dmeadow at juno.com Wed Jan 13 17:52:08 2010 From: dmeadow at juno.com (David Littlefield) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 18:52:08 -0600 Subject: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator Message-ID: <20100113.192029.3228.0.dmeadow@juno.com> I've had trouble with the plastic ones, as well. Two failed on me, one actually broke in half. Since then I've been using a metal switch with no problems. Look on the Rebco or Longacre websites. You can do a search on "anderson connectors" and get plenty of suppliers. Be warned, though. I tried using these on my battery charger and got real frustrated with loose and unreliable connections through the connectors. I eventually went back to using the clips directly on the battery terminal. David Littlefield On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:38:53 -0800 "Tracy Drummond" writes: > Which brand of cut off switch is best? I need to also kill the > alternator. > I only saw this one that matches my application so far. > http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464 > > > > Also I am considering adding a quick fitting for battery charging > but cannot > find the grey two terminal set up. > > > > Thanks guys > > > > Warm Regards, > > > > Tracy Drummond > > > > PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | > 408-394-3444 > cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as dmeadow at juno.com > > Vintage-race at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race > > ____________________________________________________________ Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=qAjF3rrbLHr9s5XOVUNqKQAAJ1AobkFamLGs6d-8EJrkYdayAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA= From chkangmd at earthlink.net Wed Jan 13 22:26:11 2010 From: chkangmd at earthlink.net (christopher h. kang, md) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 00:26:11 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Vintage-race] re battery Cut off with alternator Message-ID: <22623697.1263446771710.JavaMail.root@wamui-junio.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Also I am considering adding a quick fitting for battery charging but cannot find the grey two terminal set up. NAPA auto parts sells these(for less than *egasus) . if not in stock (the usual case), they can be ordered. chk From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Jan 13 22:44:28 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 23:44:28 -0600 Subject: [Vintage-race] battery Cut off with alternator In-Reply-To: <8AE5F87CCDD64BE08FBD96B9D69CF765@TRACY> References: <8AE5F87CCDD64BE08FBD96B9D69CF765@TRACY> Message-ID: <20100114054444.00CC918764B@autox.team.net> I prefer this one: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4913 You can run a one wire alternator, and just run the alternator charging through the 2nd set of terminals. The one you link to doesn't carry that kind of current on the Aux terminals so you need to put the field coils or something on it instead. - Tony At 10:38 AM 1/13/2010, Tracy Drummond wrote: >Which brand of cut off switch is best? I need to also kill the alternator. >I only saw this one that matches my application so far. >http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464 > > > >Also I am considering adding a quick fitting for battery charging but cannot >find the grey two terminal set up. > > > >Thanks guys > > > >Warm Regards, > > > >Tracy Drummond > > > >PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 >cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >Vintage-race at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From mgvrmark at hotmail.com Thu Jan 14 14:08:15 2010 From: mgvrmark at hotmail.com (Mark Palmer) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 21:08:15 +0000 Subject: [Vintage-race] Need advice on lifts Message-ID: All, I'm thinking of getting a lift for my home garage (actually, for a new garage that I will have built). I know absolutely nothing about lifts, never had one, never used one. The only thing I know for sure, is that I'm getting older and it's getting harder to roll around on the floor with the car up on jackstands. My primary purpose for the lift is for servicing the car -- not storing one (although it just might come in handy some day if it can be used for storing a car). So my questions are: -- how many posts? I'm thinking that 4-posts lifts are primarily storage devices, right? And 2-post lifts are better for servicing -- right? How about a single-post lift? -- what are the floor requirements? Standard slab, or thicker? Rebar? Would I be smart to pick the lift first and have the contractor install the lag bolts and then pour the floor? Or not really necessary? (what if I change my mind about which bay I want it in...) -- is it a pain to do under-hood work (car not in the air) when the car is in the bay that has the lift? So do I really need two service bays, one with the lift (for underneath work) and another bay without a lift, for wheels-down work? -- what about the garage door? Will I need a taller door to clear the lift? Can you use an electric garage door opener on that bay -- wouldn't car hit the opener when the lift is up? So no opener?? -- any recommendations on a specific brand/manufacturer? Ones to avoid? Features to look for? Buy from a mfg close to my area to avoid expensive shipping costs? It seems like there are a hundred manufacturers that advertise in Hemmings every month, do most people just buy from the one closest to home? -- any good sources of information that I can read (I haven't googled yet) -- anything you've read that you found to be extremely helpful? Any advice appreciated ... Mark Palmer _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390708/direct/01/ From John.Desantis at Inficon.com Thu Jan 14 14:33:43 2010 From: John.Desantis at Inficon.com (John.Desantis at Inficon.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 16:33:43 -0500 Subject: [Vintage-race] Need advice on lifts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have a two post - had to cut 4 holes into the existing floor for some very large bolts and footers. I love my lift but it is limiting in that it takes up a lot of space in the bay in front of my only door. If you have multiple doors this would not be a concern. I had to have extra high rails so my door gets above the lift with the car all the way up - was no big deal. The four post lifts on wheels look like the cats pajamas as you can roll the lift out of the way when you want some room, also it does not prevent you from opening the door of the car on the lift. However- I think the 4 post lifts are all wheel lifts. I much prefer my frame lift, much more open under the car. Just my 0 cents. John DeSantis Haven't been and Never will be. Racing From webmaster at norcal-saac.org Thu Jan 14 14:56:07 2010 From: webmaster at norcal-saac.org (Nor Cal SAAC) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 13:56:07 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] Need advice on lifts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B4F92F7.30807@norcal-saac.org> I also have never owned one, but have many friends who have them. .... plus I have formed opinions so here you go... Mark Palmer wrote: > So my questions are: > > > > -- how many posts? I'm thinking that 4-posts lifts are primarily storage > devices, right? And 2-post lifts are better for servicing -- right? How > about a single-post lift? Right. I would get a 2 post lift for service... although 4 post sounds a lot safer. Plus you could safely use the 4 post for storage should you need it. There's a new "portable" 2 post lift, just saw a video at Jay Leno's Garage Cute idea but I see issues...... watch and you'll see what they are ... http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/ ....scroll down. > > -- what are the floor requirements? Standard slab, or thicker? Rebar? Would > I be smart to pick the lift first and have the contractor install the lag > bolts and then pour the floor? Or not really necessary? (what if I change my > mind about which bay I want it in...) I would wait.... > -- what about the garage door? Will I need a taller door to clear the lift? > Can you use an electric garage door opener on that bay -- wouldn't car hit the > opener when the lift is up? So no opener?? The garage door rails can follow the slope of the roof as opposed to a 90 degree bend..... so not a problem > Any advice appreciated ... Regards -------------- Walt Boeninger (408) 374-4258 (408) 374-1298 fax (415) 269-0943 cell 4152690943 at txt.att.net walt at boeninger.net webmaster at norcal-saac.org webmaster at vintagemustang.org http://shelbytransam.com From geodav at bellsouth.net Thu Jan 14 15:00:31 2010 From: geodav at bellsouth.net (George Davidson) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 17:00:31 -0500 Subject: [Vintage-race] Need advice on lifts In-Reply-To: <4B4F92F7.30807@norcal-saac.org> References: <4B4F92F7.30807@norcal-saac.org> Message-ID: <4B4F93FF.7060300@bellsouth.net> Look at Jay Leno's garage where he demonstrates a Maxjax. Pretty neat portable 2-post lift. Nor Cal SAAC wrote: > I also have never owned one, but have many friends who have them. > .... plus I have formed opinions so here you go... > > Mark Palmer wrote: > >> So my questions are: >> >> >> >> -- how many posts? I'm thinking that 4-posts lifts are primarily >> storage >> devices, right? And 2-post lifts are better for servicing -- right? >> How >> about a single-post lift? > > Right. I would get a 2 post lift for service... although 4 post sounds > a lot safer. > Plus you could safely use the 4 post for storage should you need it. > > There's a new "portable" 2 post lift, just saw a video at Jay Leno's > Garage > Cute idea but I see issues...... watch and you'll see what they are ... > http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/ ....scroll down. > >> >> -- what are the floor requirements? Standard slab, or thicker? >> Rebar? Would >> I be smart to pick the lift first and have the contractor install the >> lag >> bolts and then pour the floor? Or not really necessary? (what if I >> change my >> mind about which bay I want it in...) > > I would wait.... > > >> -- what about the garage door? Will I need a taller door to clear >> the lift? >> Can you use an electric garage door opener on that bay -- wouldn't >> car hit the >> opener when the lift is up? So no opener?? > > The garage door rails can follow the slope of the roof as opposed to a > 90 degree bend..... > so not a problem > >> Any advice appreciated ... > > > > > Regards > -------------- > Walt Boeninger > (408) 374-4258 > (408) 374-1298 fax > (415) 269-0943 cell > 4152690943 at txt.att.net > walt at boeninger.net > webmaster at norcal-saac.org > webmaster at vintagemustang.org > http://shelbytransam.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as geodav at bellsouth.net > > Vintage-race at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 270.14.140/2621 - Release Date: 01/14/10 12:39:00 From ejrussell at mebtel.net Fri Jan 15 12:36:00 2010 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 14:36:00 -0500 Subject: [Vintage-race] Need advice on lifts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0091D103223648B38DE7E38F9DD18219@EricJRussellPC> A lift is on my Soon List, also. There are advantages & disadvantages to either. I am planning on a four post lift as it will be primarily for storage & occasionally for service. A two post lift is touted as better for service but less so for storage. A four post lift typically needs only a 'standard' concrete garage floor (3"-4" thick IIRC). Some two post lifts require slightly stronger/thicker floors (5" - 6"). A few two post lifts require much stronger/thicker floors (10" -12") - at least where the lift bolts to the floor. I believe that depends on how much weight it will be capable of lifting and how far 'off balance' that weight will be. You can specify 'high lift' garage door tracks that will put the tracks (& door) close to ceiling height. A jack shaft door opener mounts against the wall next to the top of the door (either side) and operates a torsion spring mounted on the wall above the door (instead of tension springs that mount above the tracks). That will avoid having a door opener hanging in the space where you wish to lift up a vehicle. I have LiftMaster 3800 door openers. There are lots of lift BTDT's (and opinions...) if you browse the forums at www.garagejournal.com (be forewarned, that web site can be addicting...). When you are comparing prices be sure to include shipping. If you can arrange to pick it up at a freight terminal you will likely be able to save on the shipping costs. You will need a flat bed trailer capable of carrying the weight and size (a four post lift comes in a package about 17' long X 4' X 4'). If you want it delivered to your home address you may need to figure how to off-load the unit. IIRC, there is an extra charge for that, too. Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Vintage-race Digest, Vol 33, Issue 10 > I'm thinking of getting a lift for my home garage > Mark Palmer From craig245 at cox.net Fri Jan 15 22:05:41 2010 From: craig245 at cox.net (Craig Wright) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 21:05:41 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] Need advice on lifts In-Reply-To: <0091D103223648B38DE7E38F9DD18219@EricJRussellPC> References: <0091D103223648B38DE7E38F9DD18219@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: <4B514925.1070508@cox.net> I installed a 4 post lift last summer and just starting to install a 2 post lift tomorrow. I picked it up at the terminal using a flatbed trailer. They will load it on your trailer and you have to tie it down. Car tie downs work well. It is packaged very well and easy to disassemble while on the trailer. You can then remove it from the trailer piece at a time. The heaviest piece on the 4 post are the ramps, they are about 400 lbs each and will take 4 average guys. I use two friends and an engine hoist that I operated, it worked very well. The two post lift's heaviest parts are the posts. They are also about 400-500 lbs each, and I use the same process for dismantling. The Bend Pak 10,000 lb two post lift requires 4 in min thickness concrete with 3000 psi rating. Here is a link to the install manual, http://www.asedeals.com/XPR10-Series-Manual-REVC.pdf. The handiest lift is the 4 post with a rolling jack between the ramps. It has an air operated scissors jack that can easily lift either the front or rear axle off the lift for wheel removal, brake work, cleaning, whatever. It is rated at 7000 lbs so there is lots of margin. I use this lift and feature all the time. Craig Wright Eric J Russell wrote: > A lift is on my Soon List, also. There are advantages & disadvantages > to either. I am planning on a four post lift as it will be primarily > for storage & occasionally for service. A two post lift is touted as > better for service but less so for storage. > > A four post lift typically needs only a 'standard' concrete garage > floor (3"-4" thick IIRC). Some two post lifts require slightly > stronger/thicker floors (5" - 6"). A few two post lifts require much > stronger/thicker floors (10" -12") - at least where the lift bolts to > the floor. I believe that depends on how much weight it will be > capable of lifting and how far 'off balance' that weight will be. > > You can specify 'high lift' garage door tracks that will put the > tracks (& door) close to ceiling height. A jack shaft door opener > mounts against the wall next to the top of the door (either side) and > operates a torsion spring mounted on the wall above the door (instead > of tension springs that mount above the tracks). That will avoid > having a door opener hanging in the space where you wish to lift up a > vehicle. I have > LiftMaster 3800 door openers. > > There are lots of lift BTDT's (and opinions...) if you browse the > forums at www.garagejournal.com (be forewarned, that web site can be > addicting...). > > When you are comparing prices be sure to include shipping. If you can > arrange to pick it up at a freight terminal you will likely be able to > save on the shipping costs. You will need a flat bed trailer capable > of carrying the weight and size (a four post lift comes in a package > about 17' long X 4' X 4'). If you want it delivered to your home > address you may need to figure how to off-load the unit. IIRC, there > is an extra charge for that, too. > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell > ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Vintage-race Digest, Vol 33, > Issue 10 > >> I'm thinking of getting a lift for my home garage > >> Mark Palmer > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as craig245 at cox.net > > Vintage-race at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From bighealey at charter.net Wed Jan 20 06:55:18 2010 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 05:55:18 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] MGA broken axles In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1BC68F13F4124E7787E69897577B9EC4@TRACY> Where is a source for double row bearings for the MGA? Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond -----Original Message----- From: Sue Salsburg [mailto:old_cat at earthlink.net] Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 6:10 AM To: Tracy Drummond Cc: vintage-race at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Vintage-race] MGA broken axles Breaking at the outer flange is unusual. The normal spot is inside the carrier, leaving a 2inch stub to beat out. Before we got serious about upgrades, we could change the pumpkin in the pits in 45 minutes/4 beers. Axle wrap-up on the old Sprites was so bad that racers routinely swapped them side-to-side after each race to "untwist". Now they have after-market, double bearing hubs. I forgot one other trick - the wire wheel axle were "supposed to be" stronger, plus their track was a bit wider. We've always used wire wheel axles with the splines cut off. When the street car guys wear off the outer splines & knockoff threads, we can get them for free or close. Good luck, Sue From 56887 at msn.com Wed Jan 20 08:30:41 2010 From: 56887 at msn.com (Stewart Smith) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 07:30:41 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] MGA broken axles In-Reply-To: <1BC68F13F4124E7787E69897577B9EC4@TRACY> References: <1BC68F13F4124E7787E69897577B9EC4@TRACY> Message-ID: Go to Spriget.com and see if he has them. Great product for BMC axles and hubs. Stewart Smith -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tracy Drummond" Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 5:55 AM To: "'Sue Salsburg'" Cc: Subject: Re: [Vintage-race] MGA broken axles > Where is a source for double row bearings for the MGA? > > Warm Regards, > > Tracy Drummond > > PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 > cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond > > -----Original Message----- > From: Sue Salsburg [mailto:old_cat at earthlink.net] > Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 6:10 AM > To: Tracy Drummond > Cc: vintage-race at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Vintage-race] MGA broken axles > > Breaking at the outer flange is unusual. The normal spot is inside the > carrier, leaving a 2inch stub to beat out. Before we got serious about > upgrades, we could change the pumpkin in the pits in 45 minutes/4 beers. > Axle wrap-up on the old Sprites was so bad that racers routinely swapped > them side-to-side after each race to "untwist". Now they have > after-market, > double bearing hubs. I forgot one other trick - the wire wheel axle were > "supposed to be" stronger, plus their track was a bit wider. We've always > used wire wheel axles with the splines cut off. When the street car guys > wear off the outer splines & knockoff threads, we can get them for free or > close. Good luck, Sue > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as 56887 at msn.com > > Vintage-race at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From old_cat at earthlink.net Wed Jan 20 10:14:13 2010 From: old_cat at earthlink.net (Susan Salsburg) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 12:14:13 -0500 Subject: [Vintage-race] MGA broken axles References: <1BC68F13F4124E7787E69897577B9EC4@TRACY> Message-ID: Source for double row bearings: there may well be a dedicated racing source by now, but we just took the bearings to an industrial bearing supply house & they matched it for size. Nice ceramic, double roller. Came from some pump that ran at high rpms 24/7. So long ago I can't remember more details. Sue From sevenamerica at yahoo.com Fri Jan 22 12:34:54 2010 From: sevenamerica at yahoo.com (John Donohoe) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 11:34:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] Aluminum Hubs for Lotus Seven (front drum brakes)? Message-ID: <498633.75958.qm@web110701.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I've heard of aluminum hubs for the Lotus Seven, but cannot find a source for them. May car still has drum brakes all around if that makes a difference... anybody have a source or any insight as to the benefit on a road car? Other than aluminum engine backplate and flywheel (already have) and aluminum head (can't spend the $$) what else is available to lighten a Sprite powered Seven? There's not much left to strip off it! Thanks,John D. From ejrussell at mebtel.net Sat Jan 23 12:41:51 2010 From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric J Russell) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 14:41:51 -0500 Subject: [Vintage-race] Aluminum Hubs... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <35A9A68815564703A14A223B7AF54EF5@EricJRussellPC> South Beach Diet? Eric Russell Mebane, NC http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell ----- Original Message ----- From: > what else is available to lighten a Sprite powered Seven? There's not much > left to strip off it! > > Thanks, John D. From 56887 at msn.com Sat Jan 23 13:22:15 2010 From: 56887 at msn.com (Stewart Smith) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 12:22:15 -0800 Subject: [Vintage-race] Aluminum Hubs... In-Reply-To: <35A9A68815564703A14A223B7AF54EF5@EricJRussellPC> References: <35A9A68815564703A14A223B7AF54EF5@EricJRussellPC> Message-ID: Aluminum aircraft bolts, aluminum radiator ( in period a Fiat radiator, some claim the new aluminum radiators carry more water negating any weight savings), all un-necessary wiring (brake light, ignition circuit), headlight bulbs, aluminum wire wheel rims, billet aluminum driveshaft, magnesium trans.......SCCA allowed 940 lbs for BMC sevens and I don't think anyone could get that light. I know the 1340's were closer in minimum weight than the BMC's for some reason. The BMC transmission is lighter, but the engine heavier. S -------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric J Russell" Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 11:41 AM To: Subject: Re: [Vintage-race] Aluminum Hubs... > South Beach Diet? > > Eric Russell > Mebane, NC > http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > >> what else is available to lighten a Sprite powered Seven? There's not >> much left to strip off it! >> >> Thanks, John D. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as 56887 at msn.com > > Vintage-race at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/vintage-race From longbranchno4 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 27 06:56:37 2010 From: longbranchno4 at yahoo.com (Brock Dittrick) Date: Wed, 27 Jan 2010 05:56:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Vintage-race] Fiat 850 Abarth For Sale ( Michigan) Message-ID: <962755.13855.qm@web31006.mail.mud.yahoo.com> $2500 Trailer that goes with it is $500. Brand new Hoosier to match $500 So, for $3500 car, trailer and new slicks $3500. Or separately or OBO. email me at bdittrick at htfd.com or call me at 248-660-6198 I need to move this car for the owner by next Wednesday- 03 Feb 2010 ( losing storage) Thanks Brock Would be a great track day car and or vintage racer. ( does not match any SCCA class. May be able to race in X class at Waterford- I do not know if there is a clas in VARA for it either. Although if Bugeyes are allowed to race with 1275's in them- then why not FIAT's.) 1972 Fiat 850 Roadster, with 1300 Abarth Engine. 850 roadster basic body. Fuel cell, custom fairing, electric fuel pump.Front mounted radiator with electric fan. Hood with latch pins. Custom fiberglass rear deck lid, with air scoop. Full cage, with swing out door bars. Custom seat, 5 point harness. Master electrical kill switch. Abarth steering wheel and shifter. Fire extinguisher. Fiat 124 basic engine, expanded to 1300 cc. Reverse rotation gear set. Abarth pistons, rods, crank and cam. Lightened and balanced flywheel. Dual Mikuni PHH 40 mm carbs. Custom exhaust manifold and exhaust. Reinforced engine mounts. Scaglia starter. Conventional 4 speed transmission. Built and developed by John Egert, Portland Oregon- Abarth importer and dealer. Full Abarth suspension. Lowered front springs, Abarth rears. Abarth lowering blocks. Adjustable Koni shocks on all four corners. BWA Mag wheels, Hoosier P185x60D13 tires. Extensive bodywork and paint. All welded panels with no filler. Porsche "Guards Red". Plexiglass windscreen, 5 inches high. Abarth decals. Lucas "beehive" brake lights. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of 850] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of 850]