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<p>My tube set up mounts to the tail of the trailing arm and then to
a L plate reinforcement to the body tub..Pretty solid.. 8 new
bolts through 3/8" plate. No chassis involvement. DaveP</p>
<p>Car came to me this way, so no clue about origins..</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/11/2025 9:17 AM, Tim Gaines
wrote:<br>
</div>
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<div>I've been doing a lot of web surfing for videos and info on
my problem of the cracked rear cross member caused by replacing
the original lever shocks with a tube shock mount. I now see
that the problem has been widely discussed, probably here on
Triumphs as well as on various forums. I wish I had paid
attention earlier. Inasmuch as both shock setups bolt to the
same mounting plate on the cross member, I had difficulty
understanding why the tube setup should do so much damage
compared to the stock lever shocks. Well, I just found an old
thread (Ken D, 2018) where one contributer (Walt P) explained a
lot with reference to Ken D's photo. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>"Ken was concerned about the angle of his lever shock link
and wondered if something was wrong. The consensus was that it
was probably normal unless the rear spring wasn't seated
properly. Walt P offered this great explanation.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><span
style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Notice
the angles in the two lever-shock link-arm photos.</span></div>
<span
style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Now,
imagine that a standard Fixed Mounting of a shock
absorber/damper was used (between the frame & the TA) to
replace the lever-shock & link-arm.</span><br
style="clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">
<span
style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">As
the Trailing Arm pivoted through its full movement, would the
Fixed Mounted Shock Absorber be able to move- as the Link-Arm
did?</span><br
style="clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">
<span
style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Or,
would the Fixed Shock Absorber remain in place and rip apart the
relatively fragile frame that it was mounted on?</span><br
style="clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">
<span
style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Because
that is exactly what happens when a Fixed Shock Absorber is used
to replace the Lever-Shock.</span><br
style="clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">
<br
style="clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">
<span
style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Something
to consider if the idea of a rear shock appeals to you.</span><br
style="clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">
<br
style="clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">
<span
style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Some
venders DO sell a replacement shock system that pivots with the
TA movement,</span><br
style="clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">
<span
style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">but
Others do not.</span><br
style="clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">
<span
style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Be
aware of what you are seeing in the their ads."</span>
<div><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><span
style="font-size: 14px;"><br>
</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Segoe UI Variable Text" style="font-size: 12pt;"
size="3">Well, I had already installed the tube shocks long
before this explanation came out, so I won't kick myself in
the ass too hard. Some of you may be interested in another
aspect of the "fix" for the cracking problem, namely putting
lever shocks back on a new or repaired cross member. I found a
great "Elin Yakov's Rusty Beauties" Youtube video that showed
how to service the original lever shocks. </font></div>
<div><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxrBaaLEHpw"
moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxrBaaLEHpw</a></div>
<div>I got out my own old pair, opened them up for the first time,
and did what the video showed. It turned out that Yakov's shocks
were pretty clean and in good shape. Mine looked bad inside, but
I plowed ahead. First, I noticed that each of mine had a grease
zerk installed in the cover, but Yakov's had a bolt (as do the
new ones I have seen at Moss). Even worse, mine had a load of
grease in them and not much else. Who knows who put those on! So
maybe that is why my ride was so bad, and that in turn was why I
replaced them with the tubes. I wish I had looked inside, but
the idea of the tube conversion looked so inviting back then. I
soaked the units in degreaser overnight, after drying filled the
first one with motorcycle fork oil as per the video, and it now
offers great resistance to movement, just as Yakov's did. In a
few minutes I head to the garage to do the other one. I think I
am going to have two good lever shocks. Now I need to see if my
cross member can be removed without too much trouble (the left
side is actually unattached to the rail now) and repaired with
some welded braces.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Tim
<div x-em-replyforwardheader=""><br>
</div>
<div>
<div>------ Original Message ------</div>
<div>From "Tim Gaines" <<a
href="mailto:mtgaines@presby.edu" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">mtgaines@presby.edu</a>></div>
<div>To "Triumphs" <<a
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>></div>
<div>Date 10/8/2025 4:37:00 PM</div>
<div>Subject TR6 rear shock mount break</div>
</div>
<div x-em-quote=""><br>
</div>
<div id="x313171a1f8234a6">
<blockquote
cite="emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com"
type="cite" class="cite2">
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind
me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough
pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had
found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire
securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I
finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear
end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had
cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor
bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog
and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm
wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever
shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea
and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to
me that there may be some folks out there who have gone
through this and can tell me just how a fix should be
attempted.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the
back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding
skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but
I have never done anything under a car. I really don't
like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking
that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but
is this really something that can be fixed that way?<br>
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