<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class="">I went back to lever arm shocks (heavy duty rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics) after the telescopic shocks ripped a chunk of my frame out. If I’d buildt up the bump stop it might have prevented it but the lever arm shocks work well if as new. I’ve had good luck with them on road trips and have done just fine autocrossing with them.<div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">This probably happened when I autocrossed the car at VTR2007 but it only completely broke loose about 75 miles from home so I limped slowly back to the shop.<br class=""><div class=""><br class=""><div class="">
Bud Rolofson<br class=""><br class="">Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)<br class=""><br class="">71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)<br class="">71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3<br class="">69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)<br class="">93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle <br class="">77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
</div><div class=""><br class="webkit-block-placeholder"></div><div class=""><img apple-inline="yes" id="AE10B883-B701-4F93-8512-88E9017A999D" src="cid:1A33528A-9DE9-47FB-8CC2-663A4AD36C14" class=""><img apple-inline="yes" id="C62BD365-78C9-495D-A190-74F7DB96D4B3" src="cid:0770F926-E074-4C34-AA30-D92D5A4F33C3" class=""><img apple-inline="yes" id="73A161A7-A4CD-4A96-BB8F-7D9192DDBD6F" src="cid:1CA7AF03-D4EA-4B29-B1C3-C052A2778EF2" class=""><img apple-inline="yes" id="2EDCF8BA-66D6-4DA9-850C-650B69F7BEA6" src="cid:6B71E471-B5CA-4772-91AB-BC35322098E4" class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div>
<div><br class=""><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div class="">On Oct 9, 2025, at 7:15 PM, Greg Lemon <<a href="mailto:grglmn@gmail.com" class="">grglmn@gmail.com</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=""><div dir="auto" class="">I have the tube shock conversion, I have been autocrossing my Triumph since I finished restoring it about 15 years ago. So far so good, I have a lift so can check things out pretty easily.<div dir="auto" class=""><br class=""></div><div dir="auto" class="">I had a good set of lever shocks, but sold them on eBay several years ago, thinking I would never go back. I put a couple extra washers on the bumper stop (in the can't hurt might help department) as I understand it may be at the limit of travel for the shock that the mount gets stressed.</div><div dir="auto" class=""><br class=""></div><div dir="auto" class="">Greg Lemon</div></div><br class=""><div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Oct 9, 2025, 7:29 PM David P <<a href="mailto:frogeye@porterscustom.com" class="">frogeye@porterscustom.com</a>> wrote:<br class=""></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><u class=""></u>
<div class=""><p class="">Dang, now I have to check mine for cracks..</p>
<div class="">On 10/9/2025 2:29 PM, <a href="mailto:brserv@aol.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" class="">brserv@aol.com</a>
wrote:<br class="">
</div>
<blockquote type="cite" class="">
<div class="">
<div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;" class=""><span style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;" class="">I
just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts
of Madison, Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the
shocks. You can specify if you want the original dampening,
or several levels of higher dampening. Plus, they always
machine the opening for the shock lever shaft, and then
install a lip seal that will keep the shocks from leaking. I
sent them my shocks and it took two weeks to get them back.
I think that I paid $130 per shock. <br class="">
</span></div>
<div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;" class=""> </div>
<div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;" class=""><span style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;" class="">AlexL</span></div>
<div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;" class=""> </div>
<div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;" class=""> </div>
<br class="">
In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
<a href="mailto:gene@garrison-grafixx.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" class="">gene@garrison-grafixx.com</a> writes:
<div class=""> </div>
<div class="">
<blockquote style="padding-left:5px;margin-left:5px;border-left:blue 2px solid" class="">
<div id="m_796308010081605463yiv4969733073" class="">
<div class="">
<div class="">Ouch!</div>
<div class=""> </div>
<div class="">Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding
question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually)
did.</div>
<div class=""> </div>
<div class="">Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I
tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking". I put
on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see
any cracks. But it always worried me. Then, a few
years back, I started hearing about an outfit that
would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?
Could look it up when I get home.) And I figured I'd
give it a try. And I'm very, very happy with the
results.</div>
<div class=""> </div>
<div class="">Just a thought for when you get to that point.</div>
<div class=""> </div>
<div class="">- GeneG</div>
<div class=""> </div>
<div id="m_796308010081605463yiv4969733073yqtfd14763" class="">
<div class="">On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines
wrote:</div>
<blockquote id="m_796308010081605463yiv4969733073qt" class="">
<div class="">I have been hearing a slapping sound either
under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I
encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I
decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the
problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire
securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such
luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and
jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire,
I saw that the cross member had cracked near where
the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I
did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and
that cross member is not available with them. So,
I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for
the old lever shock (I installed a couple of
decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much
pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me
that there may be some folks out there who have
gone through this and can tell me just how a fix
should be attempted.</div>
<div class=""> </div>
<div class="">
<div class="">That crack shown in the photo seems to be
only on the back side of the cross member. I
have learned some welding skills in the last few
years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never
done anything under a car. I really don't like
the proximity of the gas tank either. I am
thinking that my local pro welder would be the
guy to call on, but is this really something
that can be fixed that way?</div>
<div class=""> </div>
<div class="">
<div class=""> </div>
<div class=""> </div>
<div class="">
<div class=""> </div>
<div class=""> </div>
<div class=""> </div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id="m_796308010081605463yiv4969733073qt-DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" class="">
<div class=""> </div>
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<div class=""><strong class="">Attachments:</strong></div>
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<li class="">TR6 broken support.JPG</li>
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