<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class="">Dave,<div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">As I’m putting my rebuilt engine back in my 1960 TR3A, I’m also installing all new AutoMeter gauges, and the oil pressure gauge will be electric. I’m also adding oil temperature and volt gauges, so I have 6 gauges. Greg Solo in Santa Cruz who races a TR4 and I think he services Baby Doll, the blue Morgan that races in vintage, he’s made a bolt and banjo fitting that is along the oil journal downstream from the oil filter and oil pressure adjustment, believing it’s a more accurate source of oil pressure measurement being downstream.</div><div class=""><img apple-inline="yes" id="B7F95348-1225-4F33-945B-7F3148E9C1A9" src="cid:BC4ED59F-7D9F-4193-A812-8B81845CC08B" class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">I bought the fitting and the metal pipe which is pre bent to the correct shape with a tab that attaches to one of the bolts on the fuel pump threads which you can see in this photo, even though I’ve blocked off that spot and am running a Hardi electric fuel pump.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Also in this photo I temporarily hooked up the original oil line to the original gauge just to check oil pressure when I started the engine for the first time and had 70 lbs.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><img apple-inline="yes" id="EBA5DEF9-8C34-443E-A351-955B56407B22" src="cid:CF577086-B17F-4851-8CFD-48117FBB03B5" class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">This is the transition. The left side in the photo is the old oil line pipe which I’m not using but has the same female fitting so I’ve included it for this photo. Next is an adaptor to go into that female fitting, then two brass male slip fittings. That hose is rated for oil up to 300 PSI, then to the electric sending unit. I went with a 12” hose so the electric sending unit will be under the dash away from the heat. Not that I really needed to do that, but why not.</div><div class=""><img apple-inline="yes" id="DD93A50A-E995-4BAE-8976-F5C82468F19B" src="cid:B18D3A89-9460-43C1-989E-CF711C4A6261" class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Rye</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""><div><br class=""><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div class="">On Mar 15, 2025, at 5:06 PM, dave northrup <<a href="mailto:dave@ranteer.com" class="">dave@ranteer.com</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=""><meta charset="UTF-8" class=""><div class="WordSection1" style="page: WordSection1; caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;"><div style="margin: 0in; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=""><span style="font-size: 11pt;" class="">I have a 59TR3a that will be far from original so that’s not an issue, including a TR4a engine that’s been worked.<o:p class=""></o:p></span></div><div style="margin: 0in; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=""><span style="font-size: 11pt;" class=""><o:p class=""> </o:p></span></div><div style="margin: 0in; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=""><span style="font-size: 11pt;" class="">We just pulled the small gage cluster to rework it. All the gages are out and will be sent to West Valley Instruments to be refurbished/rebuilt.<o:p class=""></o:p></span></div><div style="margin: 0in; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=""><span style="font-size: 11pt;" class=""><o:p class=""> </o:p></span></div><div style="margin: 0in; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=""><span style="font-size: 11pt;" class="">I have the option of keeping the temperature gage as is (I checked and it will thread into the rebuilt engine) or having it redone as an electric gage.<o:p class=""></o:p></span></div><div style="margin: 0in; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=""><span style="font-size: 11pt;" class=""><o:p class=""> </o:p></span></div><div style="margin: 0in; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=""><span style="font-size: 11pt;" class="">I kind of like the funny old gage with its funny old piping that goes through the engine compartment. On the other hand, electric is simpler and probably cheaper.<o:p class=""></o:p></span></div><div style="margin: 0in; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=""><span style="font-size: 11pt;" class=""><o:p class=""> </o:p></span></div><div style="margin: 0in; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=""><span style="font-size: 11pt;" class="">Since the car has an alternator and backup lights off the TR6 OD tranny, wiring isn’t an issue.<o:p class=""></o:p></span></div><div style="margin: 0in; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=""><span style="font-size: 11pt;" class=""><o:p class=""> </o:p></span></div><div style="margin: 0in; font-size: 12pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=""><span style="font-size: 11pt;" class="">Just looking for opinions – keep the TR3a style or go electric?<o:p class=""></o:p></span></div></div><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; 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