<div dir="ltr">I also bought the Moss seal kit which had the incorrect scroll dimension. Yep, it leaked. The fix was to shorten the seal spring by (as I recall) 1/2" and very carefully trim the seal faces slightly to ensure they were perfectly parallel. It was a fiddly process but worked. Thanks to Tony Drews (FoT racer) for the tip. For exact dimensions, check Tony's web page (<a href="https://tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm#Crank">https://tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm#Crank</a>). <div><br></div><div>hth</div><div><br></div><div>jim</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Feb 12, 2025 at 10:50 AM Dave MacKay <<a href="mailto:dave@mdmackay.ca">dave@mdmackay.ca</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">I followed the recent exchange about “TR Rear Crank Seal Rope?” with<br>
interest and corresponded with all who replied to the OP. That has me<br>
thinking about how I might address my situation.<br>
<br>
In 2008, the engine in my TR3A was rebuilt. As part of that effort an OIL<br>
SEAL CONVERSION KIT was fitted. The conversion required that the scroll on<br>
the crankshaft be ground down. It has always leaked.<br>
<br>
I had convinced myself that fixing the leak would be too much trouble and<br>
too expensive to be worth doing. I envisioned having to replace the<br>
crankshaft and then using a more modern conversion (Moss 837-160). I<br>
wanted to check with the list to see if that’s the case or not.<br>
<br>
I believe --- but am not certain --- that the conversion was sourced from<br>
Moss (perhaps p/n 837-006). I am aware that incorrect instructions were<br>
provided with some of the conversion kits so that the crankshafts were<br>
ground too small. I don’t know if that’s the case with my conversion: the<br>
crank may have been ground to the correct dimensions, or it might not have<br>
been.<br>
<br>
I have three questions:<br>
<br>
1) Is there a way to check the crankshaft dimensions to see what it has<br>
been ground to that doesn’t require pulling the engine? I’d like to know<br>
if the crank had to ground to the correct dimensions or not.<br>
<br>
2) If the crankshaft was ground to the wrong dimensions, is there a way to<br>
fix it (e.g., special seal) short of replacing the crankshaft? Replacement<br>
crankshafts are scarce and quite expensive (>USD$1600).<br>
<br>
3) If the crankshaft was ground to the correct dimensions, what have<br>
others done to keep that oil seal conversion from leaking?<br>
<br>
I’d welcome any input from those on this list.<br>
<br>
Dave MacKay<br>
1960 Triumph TR3A, s/n 68639L<br>
near Toronto, Canada<br>
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</blockquote></div><div><br clear="all"></div><div><br></div><span class="gmail_signature_prefix">-- </span><br><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div><span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;background-color:rgb(250,250,251)">jim W4BEA</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>