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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">1) Is there a way to check the crankshaft dimensions to see what it has<br></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">been ground to that doesn’t require pulling the engine? I’d like to know<br></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">if the crank had to ground to the correct dimensions or not.<br></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;" data-setdir="false"><font color="#cb008e">you would have to pull the oil pan off and remove the rear main cap and then you could get a measurement.</font></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><br></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">2) If the crankshaft was ground to the wrong dimensions, is there a way to<br></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">fix it (e.g., special seal) short of replacing the crankshaft? Replacement<br></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">crankshafts are scarce and quite expensive (>USD$1600).<br></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;" data-setdir="false"><font color="#cb008e">nope. if its undersize your done.</font></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><br></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">3) If the crankshaft was ground to the correct dimensions, what have<br></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">others done to keep that oil seal conversion from leaking?</div></div><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><font color="#cb008e"><br></font></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><font color="#cb008e">i have done 2 that required the crank be machined.</font></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><font color="#cb008e">i found in both cases that i needed to shim something. the new scroll seal was interfering with the flywheel. im thinking i had to shim the flywheel with a single washer. just be sure you check that things turn ok with the transmission mounted before you put it in the car. yes i put it in the car the first time without checking.</font></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><font color="#cb008e">its been more that 10 years since i did those builds so forgive the memory.</font></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><font color="#cb008e">the other thing i did when assembling the scroll and seal was:</font></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><font color="#cb008e">1) make sure the scroll and rubber seal are very clean by wiping with alcohol or similar.</font></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><font color="#cb008e">2) then i wiped the crankshaft at the point of touching the seal with oil on my fingers. just enough to leave a thin film.</font></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><font color="#cb008e"> 3) where the rubber seal comes together i applied some RTV silicone adhesive to the joint. its ok if it oozes a little as the oil on the crank will not allow it to stick to the crank.</font></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><font color="#cb008e">4) once assembled let it sit for about a week to let the sealant fully cure. do not turn the crank, do not move any parts.</font></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><font color="#cb008e">having done this method twice i have had what id like to say is no leak, but a small stain occasionally has been experienced.</font></div></div><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Frank</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div><br></div>
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On Wednesday, February 12, 2025 at 07:56:15 AM PST, Dave MacKay <dave@mdmackay.ca> wrote:
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<div><div dir="ltr">I followed the recent exchange about “TR Rear Crank Seal Rope?” with<br></div><div dir="ltr">interest and corresponded with all who replied to the OP. That has me<br></div><div dir="ltr">thinking about how I might address my situation.<br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">In 2008, the engine in my TR3A was rebuilt. As part of that effort an OIL<br></div><div dir="ltr">SEAL CONVERSION KIT was fitted. The conversion required that the scroll on<br></div><div dir="ltr">the crankshaft be ground down. It has always leaked.<br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">I had convinced myself that fixing the leak would be too much trouble and<br></div><div dir="ltr">too expensive to be worth doing. I envisioned having to replace the<br></div><div dir="ltr">crankshaft and then using a more modern conversion (Moss 837-160). I<br></div><div dir="ltr">wanted to check with the list to see if that’s the case or not.<br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">I believe --- but am not certain --- that the conversion was sourced from<br></div><div dir="ltr">Moss (perhaps p/n 837-006). I am aware that incorrect instructions were<br></div><div dir="ltr">provided with some of the conversion kits so that the crankshafts were<br></div><div dir="ltr">ground too small. I don’t know if that’s the case with my conversion: the<br></div><div dir="ltr">crank may have been ground to the correct dimensions, or it might not have<br></div><div dir="ltr">been.<br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">I have three questions:<br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">1) Is there a way to check the crankshaft dimensions to see what it has<br></div><div dir="ltr">been ground to that doesn’t require pulling the engine? I’d like to know<br></div><div dir="ltr">if the crank had to ground to the correct dimensions or not.<br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">2) If the crankshaft was ground to the wrong dimensions, is there a way to<br></div><div dir="ltr">fix it (e.g., special seal) short of replacing the crankshaft? Replacement<br></div><div dir="ltr">crankshafts are scarce and quite expensive (>USD$1600).<br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">3) If the crankshaft was ground to the correct dimensions, what have<br></div><div dir="ltr">others done to keep that oil seal conversion from leaking?<br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">I’d welcome any input from those on this list.<br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">Dave MacKay<br></div><div dir="ltr">1960 Triumph TR3A, s/n 68639L<br></div><div dir="ltr">near Toronto, Canada<br></div><div dir="ltr">** <a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br></div><div dir="ltr">Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> <a href="http://www.team.net/archive" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br></div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com</a><br></div></div>
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