<div dir="auto">I have used the bubble insulation on my TR250 tunnel and floors and have no noticeable cockpit heat coming in. <div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">I will note I also did this to my old Healey 100, and it worked there to, and the big Healeys have a much bigger cockpit heat problem than the old TRs. A roll at the big box hardware store should be $20 dollars or so. </div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Greg Lemon</div><div dir="auto">TR250</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Sep 18, 2023, 7:40 AM TeriAnn J. Wakeman <<a href="mailto:tjwakeman@gmail.com">tjwakeman@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I have done the exact same thing as Edward in my 1960 Land Rover. 3 <br>
layers under the tunnel, one above to cut down sound and excess heat. <br>
That was over 30 years ago. The bubble insulation is still there and in <br>
decent condition.<br>
<br>
On 9/17/23 5:48 PM, Q wrote:<br>
> I have used a silvered Mylar "quilted" material on several cars with <br>
> good results. It is two layers of Mylar that have air trapped <br>
> in-between them in about 1/4 diamonds. It is bright silver on both <br>
> sides. I bought it at the local Orchard Supply Store several years <br>
> ago. Orchard is out of business but I expect that any "Real" hardware <br>
> store would have it.<br>
><br>
> It is nice as it will not absorb oil (I install it on the transmission <br>
> side of the tunnel). I usually fit it to a new plastic transmission <br>
> tunnel prior to installation on the car so the surface is dry and <br>
> clean. I use contact cement and cut a couple of pieces to fit the <br>
> various contours of the tunnel. The foil on my TR4 has been in place <br>
> over 20 years now with no issues including no complaints from my wife.<br>
<br>
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