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<p class="MsoNormal">Bill,</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Following.</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">I replaced the pan gasket on my TR4A about a year ago. I carefully leveled the mating surface using a dolly then a file, new gasket with Permatex #2, and actually used a in-lb torque wrench. Before it leaked moderately from the pan-to-block
join. Now it leaks slooowly, accumulating a drop at almost every bolt head, even the bolts that don’t pass into the interior of the engine. It’s frustrating because I’ve managed to solve every other leak.</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Cliff</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Sent from <a href="https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986">
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="border:none;padding:0in"><b>From: </b><a href="mailto:billbrewer59@yahoo.com">William Brewer</a><br>
<b>Sent: </b>Thursday, July 28, 2022 8:19 PM<br>
<b>To: </b><a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">Triumph List</a><br>
<b>Subject: </b>[TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"> I have been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for
<br>
over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt <br>
holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan <br>
fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I <br>
have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the <br>
recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It <br>
seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing <br>
block isn't stripped out.<br>
<br>
I have family members asking me not to bring the TR3 and Morgan <br>
over to their houses because of the amount of drips.<br>
<br>
I have looking over the "Triumph Experience" website and it looks <br>
like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either <br>
that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven't <br>
driven their cars much.<br>
<br>
I've considered CNC'ing a 3/8" steel mounting flange, welding that <br>
to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then <br>
torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more <br>
worrying about flange distortion.<br>
<br>
I've also considered making a sheet metal "catch box" that would <br>
mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could <br>
be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should <br>
make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and <br>
transmission.<br>
<br>
Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to stay drip free?<br>
<br>
-Bill Brewer<br>
<br>
Morro Bay, CA<br>
<br>
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