<div dir="auto">Canted studs On Stag too. Regarding coiled inserts. Time Serts are good. Not cheap though. <div dir="auto">Sujit</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 13, 2021, 6:42 AM David P <<a href="mailto:frogeye@porterscustom.com" rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">frogeye@porterscustom.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<p>... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have
purposely canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted
individually? Anyone? dp <br>
</p>
<div>On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy and
Valerie DeRuiter wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
Guy-</div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled
out a cracked block at that location? That is a common spot for
one, usually from someone in the past who pulled the engine by
the studs. At least I had an engine like that. If you haven't
done so, take a very good look at the inside edge of the
threaded hole. If you see a crack, that helicoil trick likely
won't work.</div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another
solution would be to take advantage of the deeper hole that
you've measured and get a shop to extend the threads of a longer
head bolt. One of the inside longer ones might work - then
shorten the other end to fit. The puzzling part is why does the
stud cant to the rear - that doesn't sound good.</div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
Randy</div>
<div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr style="display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id="m_8353697190526945515m_-4140325184600644177m_-5309575798716590931divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt" face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
Triumphs <a href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net" rel="noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank"><triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net></a> on behalf
of Guy Huggins <a href="mailto:guy.huggins@icloud.com" rel="noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank"><guy.huggins@icloud.com></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Triumph Mailing List
<a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" rel="noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank"><triumphs@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud
hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div style="word-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">Howdy All,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>As part the head gasket replacement project, I
need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head
stud hole in the block.</div>
<div>(If you were standing on the manifold side of
the engine, it would be the one furtherest to the front, on
the manifold side.)</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>A stud goes in straight up and down until the
top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles
like hell.</div>
<div>As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle
starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back
toward the rear of the block.</div>
<div>This make it impossible to slide the head down
over the canted stud.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert.
(drill just 1/32” oversized, tap, install insert).</div>
<div>I am hoping that someone from the list knows of
a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase.</div>
<div>I know better than to attempt drilling out cast
iron without a steadying device of some sort.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Any and all tips and advice are welcome.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The hole is 1 5/16” deep, and the threads of the
stud measure 3/4”.</div>
<div>It is basically threaded top to bottom.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks in advance.</div>
<div>I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing
to fix the known thing.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);letter-spacing:normal;text-align:start;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px;word-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">
<div style="word-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica;font-size:14px;font-style:normal;font-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:normal;text-align:start;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px">
Kind Regards,<br>
<br>
Guy D. Huggins<br>
<a href="mailto:guy.huggins@icloud.com" rel="noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">guy.huggins@icloud.com</a><br>
817.454.6415</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica;font-size:14px;font-style:normal;font-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:normal;text-align:start;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px">
<br>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<br>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset></fieldset>
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