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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><blockquote style="border-left: 2px solid blue; padding-left: 3px;"> removed damper from carb body, removed the fixing screw from the piston damper side</blockquote></div>
<div> <font size="3">Don't remove the screw. That is what keeps the body from turning while you are making the adjustments. And you don't have to remove the piston, either. If the screw tension is set right it will allow the adjuster to turn with resistance but will keep that setting when you're done. </font><br>
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<div style="clear:both"><font size="4">Dave </font><br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font size="2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Henningsen, James D. <henningj@cf.edu><br>
To: TR List <triumphs@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Fri, Nov 5, 2021 1:25 pm<br>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Zenith Stromberg Carbs<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Ok, it’s been a while since I’ve adjusted the mixture on my ZS 175 CD-2 carbs on my TR6. I have the adjustable B1AF needles, removed damper from carb body, removed the fixing screw from the piston damper side. I insert the special tool into the damper tube to turn the needle assembly and it engages the hex socket hole. I can rotate left and right but it doesn’t move the height of the needle face on the bottom of the damper no matter which way I turn. If I pull the needle down from the damper to its lowest spring position and then turn left or right, the needle seat height does move up and down. I don’t recall having to hold the needle out to adjust mixture. I also can’t easily find the fully lean or rich stop points easily. Ten turns seems a bit much.<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Any thoughts greatly appreciated. Trying to get my refreshed 6 back on the road from a major engine drivetrain upgrade. Thanks I advance <br>
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<div dir="ltr">Jim Henningsen<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Ocala FL<br>
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