<html xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 15 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:Calibri;
panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{margin:0in;
font-size:11.0pt;
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:blue;
text-decoration:underline;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
--></style></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink="#954F72" style='word-wrap:break-word'><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>Art,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>I suppose you could but it wouldn’t be easy and the results might disappoint. In that area in addition to the crank seal you must also carefully seal the rear bearing cap to block cavity. I have found that cavity is as much if not more of a leak path than the crank. The scroll type seal used on our cars is really quite good if set up properly by the work shop manual. But in my experience the cap to block seal cavity gets overlooked and I’ve seen significant leakage from a poor job with that area. Might be hard doing that from below. Many an engine rebuild has disappointed the owner because the cap to block is actually leaking but the crank seal gets the blame.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Just my 2 cents worth.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>JVV<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Sent from <a href="https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986">Mail</a> for Windows</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div style='mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='border:none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href="mailto:artwmcewen@gmail.com">Art McEwen</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Wednesday, November 3, 2021 1:03 PM<br><b>To: </b><a href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject: </b>[TR] TR3A rear main seal w/ engine in</p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Can a vitron seal be installed while the engine is in place if the gearbox is out?</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>When I put the car up for winter storage I pulled the gearbox for a rebuild but I quickly realized most of the oil leakage was from the rear main crank seal. However the winter storage area is gravel beside the garage without room to get an engine lift to the front (or maneuver it well on gravel). Alternatively, I’d have to push the car up hill into the garage (all my car friends are distant and/or old).</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Is it wishful thinking to contemplate pulling the pan and loosening the crank bolts to install the vitron upgraded seal from underneath?</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Thanks,</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Art</p><p class=MsoNormal>** triumphs@autox.team.net **</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</p><p class=MsoNormal>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv@roadrunner.com</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>