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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link="#0563C1" vlink="#954F72" style='word-wrap:break-word'><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'>Don’t forget that the feed or the hot side of the circuit is one part of the big picture and that the ground side is just as important. Check the quality of all of the ground connections for the headlight connectors as well as the connection between the engine block and the body. A voltmeter should show less than 0.1 volt when the probes are placed at the ground (negative) post of the battery and the ground terminal of each headlight. Conversely, there should be less than 0.2 volts when the probes are placed at the positive terminal of the battery and each of the hot terminals of the headlights. Your voltmeter test probes may not be long enough to do that but you should get the picture. Some folks may suggest that my voltage values are unrealistically low, but it is a goal. Ideally, the total voltage available across the terminal posts of the battery should be dissipated across the bulb filament with no appreciable voltage drops in either the insulated or ground circuits. Testing for these voltage drops is always done with the headlights on.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'>Alex Thomson<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>keithstewart@bell.net<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, July 30, 2021 5:42 PM<br><b>To:</b> 'Jeff Nathanson'; triumphs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR6 LED headlamps<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>My wife had exactly the same complaint in her TR6. You could do an easy Quartz Halogen or LED conversion, but there is more to the situation. She wanted me to install a pair of Driving Lights to increase illumination. I asked that she let me try something first and if it still was not bright enough, I would add the Driving Lights later.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>Part of the problem is the number of switches and junctions that the wiring goes through before the filament is lighted up.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><img width=359 height=464 id="Picture_x0020_1" src="cid:image001.jpg@01D78584.CEC2D010" alt="Diagram
Description automatically generated"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>Every one of the red circled junction points creates resistance and results in a loss of power getting to the bulb filaments. What I did was a bit more costly, but boy did it make a difference. I wrote up the conversion for our club magazine, the Toronto Triumph Club’s Ragtop, and am happy to share it if you like, just email me.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>I used the Advance Auto Wire Headlamp kit (<a href="http://www.advanceautowire.com/">http://www.advanceautowire.com/</a>) to separately fuse each filament (right, left hi, low) and use relays to provide the power to each pair of filaments. In this case, your existing lighting switch only manages the limited power to switch the relay. The power to the actual filament comes straight from the battery/starter. Therefore, far more power reaches the filament when the bulb is energized. This change alone is likely to increase the amount of light on the road. There are other kits on the market, but IMHO, not as high a quality as the AAW. If you know your wiring, you can do the individual components yourself. Additionally, I added Cibié quartz halogen Headlamp conversions.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>The amount of light on the road is AMAZING. She did not want the driving lights after she experienced the difference.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>Keith Stewart<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>keithstewart@bell.net<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><span lang=EN-CA><hr size=2 width="100%" align=center></span></div><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b>From:</b> Jeff Nathanson <jeffn@msystech.com> <br><b>Sent:</b> July 30, 2021 12:06 AM<br><b>To:</b> triumphs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR6 LED headlamps<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal>I was driving my 1972 TR6 one night and noticed how dark the roads seem (compared to my new car). I have Sylvania halogen headlamps in the 6, and was told that LED is the way to go. Are there any suggestions (other than drive with the high beams). There seems to be a lot of contradicting messages on the web like the need to change the wiring, or add a relay, change the switch, and more. Are there any avenues to avoid?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Thanking in advance,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Jeff N.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>