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<div> <font size="3">When you get to Grade 8 you are faced with a brittleness and breakage where a lower grade will stretch. I saw a grade 8 bolt break and it was just holding a rocker shaft pedestal. Grade 5 is more than adequate. </font><br>
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<div style="clear:both"><font size="4">Dave </font><br>
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<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font size="2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Greg Donovan <greg@gregoryd.com><br>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Fri, May 14, 2021 10:06 am<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] Grade 2 lock nuts<br>
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<div dir="ltr">A related by different question:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">My instinct here, almost always, would be to err on the side of higher grades. Rated for 2, put a 3 on.<br>
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<div dir="ltr">One disadvantage with this approach is cost: higher grades, more money. <br>
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<div dir="ltr">Other than higher cost, are there other disadvantages to using a higher grade than absolutely needed?<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Are there situations where the lower grade is preferable? E.g., if something's going to fail under stress, you’d rather it be a grade 2 bolt than the expensive component it’s securing.<br>
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<div dir="ltr">—Greg<br>
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<div dir="ltr">> On May 14, 2021, at 9:44 AM, Nick Black <<a ymailto="mailto:vintagenick42@yahoo.com" href="mailto:vintagenick42@yahoo.com">vintagenick42@yahoo.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">> I believe that the usual nuts and bolts on a TR are equivalent to grade 5 or so and they may have been higher grade in this application.<br>
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<div dir="ltr">> Grade 2 seems a bit “wimpy” here. I would not use such a soft nut especially in this application. Also, do not use “standard” bolts here as the flanges need to ride on the shank of the bolt, not on the tread. Either buy the correct bolt and nut or use NAS bolts and grade 8 locknuts.<br>
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<div dir="ltr">> <br>
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<div dir="ltr">> Of course I may be a little “nuts” myself...<br>
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<div dir="ltr">> Nick in NorCal <br>
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